Top 5 Wood Burning Books Ranked and Reviewed

Getting into pyrography can be a fun and rewarding experience, whether you're just starting out or looking to take your skills to the next level. There are some fantastic books out there that can help you along the way, offering tips, techniques, and plenty of project ideas.

In this review, we'll take a look at FIVE great reads that can guide you through your woodburning journey. From learning the basics to mastering realistic animal portraits, these books have got you covered.

Let's dive into what makes each of these resources invaluable for any pyrography enthusiast.

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Creative Woodburning: Projects, Patterns and Instruction to Get Crafty with Pyrography

“Creative Woodburning" by Bee Locke is a comprehensive guide suitable for both beginners and experienced pyrography artists. The book starts with a thorough introduction to the basics of woodburning, covering essential tools, materials, and safety practices. Locke delves into various techniques, from basic shading and texturing to more advanced methods like stippling and crosshatching. The book includes a wide range of projects, each with detailed step-by-step instructions and patterns, ensuring there's something for everyone. Additionally, the inclusion of original designs and motifs provides ample inspiration for readers to develop their unique style.

One of the book's strengths is its clear and detailed instructions, which make it accessible for beginners. The troubleshooting section is particularly helpful, offering solutions for common mistakes. However, the book may not offer new insights for highly advanced woodburners, and some projects might be too complex for absolute beginners without additional guidance. Overall, "Creative Woodburning" is a valuable resource for anyone interested in pyrography, providing a balanced mix of instruction, inspiration, and practical tips.

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"The Wood Burn Book: An Essential Guide to the Art of Pyrography" by Rachel Strauss

"The Wood Burn Book: An Essential Guide to the Art of Pyrography" by Rachel Strauss is an excellent resource for both novice and experienced pyrography artists. The book opens with a thorough introduction to the basics of woodburning, detailing essential tools, materials, and safety practices. Strauss covers a wide array of techniques, from simple line work and shading to intricate texturing and pattern creation. Each technique is explained with clear, step-by-step instructions and accompanied by high-quality photographs, making it easy for readers to understand and follow along.

What sets this book apart is the variety of projects it offers. Strauss includes a broad range of ideas, from decorative household items to personalized gifts, ensuring there's something for every skill level and interest. The book also features unique and original designs, providing plenty of inspiration for readers to develop their own creative projects. Additionally, Strauss's passion for pyrography shines through in her engaging writing style, making the book not only informative but also enjoyable to read.

While the book is comprehensive, highly experienced woodburners might only find a couple tidbits of new information. Overall, "The Wood Burn Book" is a valuable and inspiring guide that offers a balanced mix of instruction, practical tips, and creative inspiration, making it a worthwhile addition to any pyrography artist's library.

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"Wood Burning Realistic Animals" by Minisa Robinson

"Wood Burning Realistic Animals" by Minisa Robinson is a specialized guide focused on creating lifelike animal portraits through the art of pyrography. This book is particularly valuable for artists who wish to enhance their skills in rendering detailed and realistic animal figures. Robinson begins with a thorough introduction to the basics of pyrography, including essential tools, materials, and safety tips, which makes the book accessible to beginners.

The core of the book lies in its detailed tutorials for creating realistic animal portraits. Robinson provides step-by-step instructions, accompanied by high-quality photographs and detailed line drawings, to guide readers through each stage of the process. She covers various techniques such as shading, texturing fur, and capturing the intricate details of animal features, all aimed at bringing a lifelike quality to the woodburned artwork.

One of the book's strengths is its focus on realism. Robinson shares her expertise in capturing the essence and character of different animals, offering tips on how to achieve precise details and depth. This makes the book an excellent resource for artists looking to challenge themselves and elevate their pyrography skills.

The level of detail and complexity in the projects might be daunting for absolute beginners. Some prior experience with basic pyrography techniques would be beneficial before tackling the more advanced projects in this book. Additionally, while the book is highly specialized, those seeking a broader range of subjects or simpler projects might find it less versatile.

Overall, "Wood Burning Realistic Animals" by Minisa Robinson is an exceptional guide for pyrography artists interested in creating lifelike animal portraits. Its detailed tutorials and expert tips make it a valuable resource for advancing one's skills in realistic woodburning.

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"The Great Book of Wood Burning" by Lora S. Irish

"The Great Book of Wood Burning" by Lora S. Irish is an extensive and detailed guide for pyrography artists, whether they are beginners or more advanced practitioners. The book starts with a thorough introduction to the basics of wood burning, covering essential tools, materials, and safety practices, which is particularly beneficial for those new to the craft.

One of the book's major strengths lies in its exploration of various techniques. Irish meticulously explains everything from basic line work and shading to advanced texturing and layering methods. Each technique is presented with step-by-step instructions and detailed photographs, ensuring readers can easily follow along and practice effectively.

The book also stands out for its wide range of projects. It includes designs suitable for different skill levels, from simple patterns to more intricate artworks. Each project comes with clear instructions, patterns, and helpful tips, making it easy for readers to recreate the designs or use them as inspiration for their own creations.

Another highlight is the extensive collection of original designs and motifs, ranging from nature-inspired scenes to abstract patterns. This wealth of design options is excellent for sparking creativity and helping artists develop their own unique styles. The link is to an extended version which has even more designs, techniques and projects!

Beginners might find some of the advanced projects challenging without prior experience, and highly experienced woodburners might not find new techniques. Overall, "The Great Book of Wood Burning" is a valuable and inspiring resource, offering a balanced mix of instruction, practical tips, and creative inspiration for anyone interested in pyrography.

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"WoodBurning Workshop" by Court O’Reilly

"Woodburning Workshop" by Court O’Reilly is a practical and comprehensive guide designed for pyrography enthusiasts of all skill levels. The book begins with an in-depth introduction to the basics of pyrography, covering essential tools, materials, and safety practices. This foundational knowledge is particularly beneficial for beginners, ensuring they have a solid understanding before progressing to more complex techniques.

O’Reilly excels in providing detailed, step-by-step instructions for a wide range of wood burning techniques, from basic line work and shading to advanced texturing and detailing methods. The book includes a variety of projects tailored to different skill levels, each accompanied by high-quality photographs and clear instructions.

Additionally, the wealth of original designs and motifs, ranging from nature scenes to abstract patterns, serves as a rich source of inspiration for artists looking to develop their unique styles. Overall, "Wood Burning Workshop" is a valuable resource that balances practical instruction with creative inspiration, making it a worthwhile addition to any pyrography artist's library.

Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art

Finishing wood slice art can provide several benefits, including protection from environmental factors, enhancement of its natural beauty, increased durability, ease of cleaning, and personal preference.

By applying a finish, the wood slice art can be preserved for a longer period of time while also making it more resistant to scratches, dents, and other types of wear and tear. Wood burned marks and designs on the wood, especially shallow burns; such as shading, naturally fade with age and exposure to air, and particularly sunlight!

The finish can also bring out the unique grain patterns and color of the wood slice art, adding to its aesthetic appeal. It can also darken the wood considerably, sometimes even making wood burned designs non visible (especially light shading) so make sure you test it on the back of the wood slice before committing to the whole piece. Learn more about how to avoid this here: Isolation Coat/Primer and Wood

When choosing the right finish for your project, there are a few things you should consider. 

Time, cost, use, and desired effect.

• How long do you want to wait for it to dry/cure? 

• How much money do you want to spend? 

• Will your item be used with food? 

• Will children be playing with the item? 

• Do you want it shiny or matte?

Here are 5 of our favorite finishes to use and why we like to use them:

No matter which finish you select, be sure to try it on your specific type of wood before you apply it to your finished art piece that you have worked so hard on.

The number of art pieces that have been ruined by finishes makes our heart hurt. Don’t let it happen to you: test before you apply! Each finish looks different on different types of wood. Always test!

***Also, be warned, if your wood has spots or imperfections in it, the majority if finishes will cause them to stand out even more. This includes sanding lines (if you didn’t use a fine grit to finish smoothing our your wood, or if you sanded in the wrong direction, the lines from sandpaper may show).

Please note: These include Amazon Assoicate links for our favorite products. We receive a very small portion if you choose to purchase our recommendations.

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Food Safe Finishes

The most important thing to consider, or the thing to consider first, is will the wood slice be used with food? General finishes are not safe to be used on items like cutting boards and wooden utensils. Be sure you are using cutting board oil or cutting board wax, because many companies also have oils that are meant for furniture which is not food safe. Always look for the words “food safe”

Key differences between oils and waxes:

• Penetration vs. Protection: Oil conditioners and finishing oils penetrate into the material to nourish and protect from within, whereas waxes primarily provide a protective surface coating.

• Appearance: Waxes can alter the appearance more significantly by adding a sheen or gloss, while oils and conditioners tend to enhance the natural look of the material.

• Maintenance: Wax finishes may need more frequent reapplication but offer more immediate surface protection against water and scratches. Oils and conditioners may provide longer-lasting nourishment but might not offer as strong a barrier against surface damage.

A combination of wax and oil can provide both protection and a natural, safe finish for wood. If using wax and oil finishes separately, apply the oils first to allow them to penetrate the wood, and then the wax to seal all that goodness in.

Here are our top two food safe oils we use:

Walrus oil

This us one of our favourite companies, and one the community likes to use as well. Please note, they do not harm any animals!

Walrus Oil Cutting Board Oil uses coconut oil, mineral oil, vitamin E and beeswax (be mindful of people who have a coconut allergy). Walrus cutting board oil is liquid and doesn't solidify. It adds a rich color (the more layers you put, the richer the colors and deeper the grain will be), it won't leave a funky taste, and goes on nice and smooth. You can finish it simply with their Wood Wax for Cutting Boards or even just use the the mentioned wax on its own.

Howards Products, Inc.

The Cutting Board Oil contains food grade mineral oil stabilized with Vitamin E, will not go rancid and is odourless and tasteless.

The one thing I will say about the Conditioner is that dirt and grime can collect a little more easily on it once finished, but the color it brings out of the wood, especially basswood, is gorgeous. This one is a mix of oil and wax.

The Wax is probably one of the best we have used for wood surfaces that are used with more wet items (i.e. pickles, cucumbers, tomatoes…) We found it to give the charcuterie boards the most protection from stains and marks.

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General Finishes

Minwax Fast Drying PolyURETHANE 

It is a good idea to use a spray version versus a brush-on version with pieces that have added mediums on it (like watercolour, gold leaf etc…) because wiping/brushing the finish can cause the color to spread or bleed or come off.

Choosing gloss, semi-gloss, or matte are all based on personal preference. Some of us love that shine, and some of us want it to be completely matte. A shiny glossed coat can help protect it from finger prints showing and dirt collecting but may show brush stroked more...

Water Based PolyCRYLIC 

We got a lot of responses with polyacrylic, and this is one we like to use as well. Polyacrylic spray-on and brush-on only comes as water based, but comes in satin, gloss, and high gloss sheens. It dries quickly, but can take a long time to fully cure, so be careful setting anything on top of something finished in polyacrylic. It is not as durable as polyurethane, but it isn't as toxic to your lungs or as smelly. It is fairly clear (get the crystal clear kind) but can get milky if you put it on too thick over a dark burn. Also, because it's fairly thin in viscosity and dries quickly, you can get brush strokes from the application that stay, It can be hard to get a really smooth finish.

Key Differences between a polyurethane and a polycrylic:

• Composition and Odor: Polyurethane can be oil or water-based, with oil-based versions having a stronger odor and longer drying times. Polyacrylic is water-based, with low odor and quick drying times.

• Appearance and Yellowing: Oil-based polyurethane deepens the color of the wood and may yellow over time, which is less desirable for light woods. Polyacrylic remains clear, making it suitable for maintaining the natural color of the wood.

• Durability and Application: While both finishes provide good protection, oil-based polyurethane is generally more durable. However, polyacrylic is easier to apply, dries faster, and is better for quick projects..
  

What we use for Longevity and ultimate protection: Resin

Epoxy Resin makes for a gorgeous, well-protected finish, just don't put it in the sun or moisture, it may cloud it depending on the brand. We like Art Resin as our Resin of choice and find it lasts the longest without clouding or yellowing. Also, any information you may need to finsish a project is easy to find on their website and if you are really stuck, the customer service is absolutely amazing!

Resin takes a while to cure, is super thick, and requires precise mixing (it has a super easy mixing guide online). You also need other tools like a level and a heated tool to remove bubbles and smooth it. Depending on how large your piece is, a lighter can work. For larger pieces, using a torch is much easier.

It can also be messy to work with because it will spill over the edges, but the finished look is gorgeous. Keeping it out of dust particles while its drying is crucial (we cover our slices with a simple cardboard box).

It makes whatever you burned or added to the slice pop! It resists yellowing from the sun but can eventually yellow over time.

You have to make a new batch every time you use it, and it is also a bit pricey, but it is gorgeous!

Fun Tip:

If you don't want the color of the wood to change, Aly of @alyoopsartistry suggests to use isolation coat  before adding your finish. This is awesome to use when you want the colour of your piece to stay as is before adding the resin. To learn more about this, check out: Isolation Coat/Primer and Wood

Click here to read about why you may consider leaving your wood slice unfinished.

How to apply a finish to your wood slice:

Finishing wood burned art can help protect it and enhance its appearance. Here are some steps you can follow to finish your wood burned art:

1. Sand the wood: Use sandpaper to smooth the surface of the wood and remove any rough spots. Click here to see the best way to sand your slices. Having a smooth surface is crucial as the sanding lines will be more visible with majority of finishes added.

2. Remove dust: Clean the wood surface with a clean, dry cloth to remove any dust or debris.

3. Apply a wood conditioner or oil: This will help the wood absorb the finish evenly. Apply the wood conditioner or oil with a clean cloth and let it soak in for about 15 minutes before wiping off any excess.

4. Choose your finish: There are many types of finishes you can use on wood burned art, such as polyurethane, lacquer, or wax. Choose the finish that best fits your desired outcome.

5. Apply the finish: Apply the finish with a brush, foam brush, or cloth according to the manufacturer's instructions. Make sure to apply an even coat and avoid drips.

6. Let it dry: Allow the finish to dry completely before handling the wood.

7. Apply additional coats: Depending on the type of finish, you may need to apply additional coats. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the recommended drying time between coats.

8. Buff the finish: After the final coat has dried, use a clean cloth to buff the surface of the wood to a smooth and shiny finish.

Following these steps will help ensure that your wood burned art is protected and looks great for years to come.

When to re-finish your wood art

In general, it is recommended to reapply a finish to wood art every 1-3 years to maintain its appearance and protect it from wear and tear. However, if the wood art is exposed to harsh conditions such as direct sunlight, high humidity, or frequent handling, you may need to apply a finish more often.

It's important to also keep an eye on the finish and look for signs of wear or damage such as cracking, peeling, or discoloration. If you notice any of these signs, it's time to refinish the wood art to prevent further damage.

Ultimately, the best way to determine how often you should finish your wood art is to monitor its condition regularly and apply a new coat of finish as needed to maintain its appearance and protection.

Functional wood art, such as cutting boards, serving trays, and furniture, may require more frequent refinishing than decorative wood art since they are exposed to more wear and tear.

Best Wood for Pyrography

Wood is the most common surface for pyrography! There are other surfaces you can burn on, but wood is available almost everywhere and is definitely a great place to start if you are new to wood burning.

Always look for unfinished, sanded smooth, and dried wood. These are musts for pyrography.

There are also some woods you should absolutely avoid and that list, you can find here.

Always wear a mask and follow safety precautions when burning on any type of wood or alternative surface. This is super important regardless of wood type.

And onto what you will want to burn on! Below are the top wood surfaces to burn on according to our own experiences as well as from polling hundreds of pyrographers in the community.

Please note there are affiliate links below. We always link to products we know and love and personally have used ourselves!

Top 9 Wood Surfaces to Burn On

Basswood

Basswood is a very common wood species that is easy to find and easy to burn on.

It is a favorite amongst pyrographers because of its availability, light color (creating nice contrast with burn lines) and for the way it burns. It is easy and smooth to burn on.

The grain is visible, but still smooth so it doesn’t effect your burn as much as other woods.

The even, light color makes it the perfect canvas for wood burning. Oh and the color of the wood only darkens slightly when adding any oils or finishes. Other woods can get much darker.

It is easily found with the very classic tree-bark live-edge, making the perfect rustic rounds.

The bonus with basswood is that because it’s commonly available, it comes in loads of different shapes, sizes, live edge, no live edge, thick or thin, etc… We know and love Walnut Hollow for their variety of wood, sustainability efforts, as well as the quality! Get 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15 - Walnut Hollow’s collection of Basswood are always sanded smooth and are ready to burn on:

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Cherry

Cherry is such a lovely wood to burn on. There are many variations (color and grain) which may be distracting for some, but for others, this adds character.

One slight downfall is that cherry contains some natural sap, which can release potentially irritating fumes when burned so please, as with any wood surface you are burning on, proceed with safety and caution.

I love cherry for it’s warm, reddish tone and rich colour. You can create beautifully detailed pyrography art on it at a slightly higher heat setting (or slower pace).

Be careful in adding any finishes (stains or even colourless oils and sealers), as cherry wood darkens quite a bit. You can still see the burn lines, but it decreases the contrast the pyrography marks make.

Here is an example of a cherry wood slice with resin on it. The colour is rich and beautiful but if your design has light shading, it could disappear after a finish is applied!

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Birch

Birch is a harder in structure, when it comes to pyrography, which means you either turn up the heat or move slower with it. Because it is a harder wood, it allows for incredible details.

Even though it is slightly harder to burn on, it still has beautiful qualities like the light blonde color, stunning white live edge bark and subtle grain lines that don’t interfere with the burning. It typically has a bright, creamy-white color or yellowish tint and a satin-like sheen to its finish which makes for nice contrast when burning.

Basia enjoys burning on end grain, like on this round live edge wood slice above, especially when the wood slice has the bark in tact. Rachel prefers face grain wood which has the grain running across the entire wood slice.

In general, birch trees aren't as big (or thick) as other hardwoods, so the slices you get from them usually aren't big either. Because of this, companies make birch wood plywood. As with ANY plywood, these planks use a lot of glues which can be dangerous to burn on. Always wear the safety gear, no matter what.

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Aspen

Aspen burns very similar to basswood in our experience, but isn’t just one solid color. It has lovely variations in color to it, which is my favourite part about this wood - it's easy to recognize and the colours on it can add to your design. If that doesn’t work for you or your design, try a face grain cut slice (the planks versus the rounds). Not sure what face grain is? Check out our Intro to Wood as a Pyrography Artist blog post to learn more.

Aspen is softer when burning making it feel buttery smooth and satisfying.

The grain is subtle and you can barely feel anything at all when burning, especially if sanded properly!

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Walnut

Walnut is such a juicy wood to burn on. It has a lovely medium/dark brownish color to it, and smells amazing when you burn it, however it is more on the expensive side.

It also contains a natural compound called juglone, which can cause respiratory irritation when burned in large amounts (if you burn hot) or over long periods of time. It’s essential to work in a well-ventilated area and wear a mask and follow ALL safety precautions, as with any other woods you are working with.

This is one of those woods that soaks up finishes and darkens quite a bit when you put any finishes. This could make your lines and shading not as visible… Any light shading will disappear.

However, add a finish to this and just watch the natural grain pop and shine; So much dimension in this wood species!

The grains are visible but don’t interfere with burning. It is a dream is you burn deep like I do.

We know and love Walnut Hollow for their variety of wood, sustainability efforts, as well as the quality! They have buttery smooth Walnut - get 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15

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Maple

Maple is one of Rachel’s personal favorites to burn on. She love the subtle grain in it (which does not get in the way of burning), and the color of the wood makes a great canvas.

It is harder than basswood, and is just lovely to burn on at a slightly higher heat. It is nice and lightly colored, lending itself well for pyrography. Finishes will darken the surface but not very much so you will not loose your work.

Maple is a bit more costly than basswood, but is worth it.

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Sourwood

Sourwood is one of Basia’s favourites due to the large and intricate live edge bark on it. The bark is so stunning, it creates it’s own frame of sorts!

The surface is lighter in color making a great canvas for burning and even though it is a hardwood, with some patience, higher heat and a slower pace, it is still a pleasure to burn on.

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Poplar

Poplar is another great choice for wood burning. It is another light colored option, although often it has a green tone to it which not everyone likes. There is a process you can take to get rid of this but it must be completed after you burn (because burning on the treatment is dangerous) and may require a bit of sanding so ensure your burn lines are fairly deep.

The grains can get in the way a bit, but otherwise it is a fairly smooth burn. It is quite similar to maple, but less expensive. A great choice for pyrography and very accessible and cheap.

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Cedar

Cedar has a beautiful rich red color in the center and a lighter color on its edges.

It burns really nicely and is lovely to work with because is a softer wood. It feels like butter. It’s easy to understand pyro tools and the variety of nibs and what they can do because you require less control when the wood is softer, can burn at a higher temperature, therefore allowing you to play around a little.

WARNING! Cedar is a very resinous wood. All kinds of cedar, but especially ones like Western Red Cedar, contain natural oils and resins, (creosote) which may release harmful fumes when burned (more fumes when heated very high). I wouldn’t go out of my way to buy this wood for a project, but I had a lot on hand after a building project. Always wear a mask and follow safety precautions when burning on any type of wood.

Also, beware when staining, that red color deepens quite a bit, so always practice before adding a finish to a cedar wood burned piece.

A great place to learn more about your favorite wood types is at wood-database.com - here you will find all the specs you need!

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Runner-up Wood Surfaces to Burn On

1. Beech

2. Cork (Be careful with this one! Not all cork is made with glue, so make sure to use natural cork which is made directly from the bark of the cork oak tree).

3. Ash

4. Mahogany

5. Alder

6. Sycamore

7. Cypress

8. Willow

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Check out the DO NOT BURN ON list here.

Click Here for pyrography surfaces to burn on that are not wood!

Always wear a mask and follow safety precautions when burning on any type of wood or alternative surface. This is super important regardless of wood type.

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Tool Care for your Woodburning Tool

Tool care and cleaning is important for getting a smooth burn, and for keeping your tool working for a long time.

Caring for a pyrography machine ensures its longevity and consistent performance.

If you are in the market to buy, but don’t know what to choose, check out this blog post: What Woodburning Tool is Right for Me?

Below are some general wood burning tool tricks for keeping your pyrography tool in tip-top shape.

We include products with Amazon Affiliate links to the tools I and other pyrographers use to clean their wood burning tools. We only recommend what we know and love.

For general wood burner (machine)care:

• Make sure your burner has good air flow.

• Make sure it is free of dust and dirt. Do not use harsh chemicals or water to clean the machine, as this can damage its components: Wipe the machine and pen with a soft, dry cloth instead.

• Be sure to give your burner breaks, especially if you are burning on high temperatures. This will help keep your burner and pens happy for a long time and avoids damaging internal components.

• Avoid pulling or yanking the cords; instead, unplug it gently.

• Follow manufacturer instructions: Refer to the user manual for specific care recommendations for your pyrography machine.

When traveling or Storing: take care to pack your burner well.

• Keep the machine in a cool, dry place, away from moisture or extreme temperatures.

• Do not to bend any of the cords with force or pressure or excessively. This will cause the wires to break or become weak inside the palstic. You usually can’t see this happeneing but it does, especially with lots of bending.

• Store the pen with its tip detached or in a protective case to prevent damage. Usually the pens come in individual cases… Keep these for travel or storage. I travel quite often with my burner and found that putting it in a hard shell duffel style case helps keep in tact and secure. Here I am using a vintage sewing case. It’s hard outer layer allows everything inside to keep from squishing!

nib care:

• Ensure the tips or nibs you use are compatible with your machine.

• Handle tips with care, as bending or forcing them can damage the connectors. This goes for when in use and storing them!
  

Nib Cleaning:

You will want to have a way to clean your tools while they are hot, and a deeper clean while they are cool.

My favorite cleaning tool while my burner is hot is a brass brush. I give my nip/tip/pen a gentle little scritch-scrath whenever my lines are looking a little '“jumpy” or I see char build-up.

Every once in a while I also like to give my tools a deeper clean while they are cool. To do this, I use a leather strop with white compound. You rub the white compound onto the rough side of the leather, and then rub your nib until it’s nice and clean. This is the best way that I have found to clean nibs.

These are other ways that you can clean them.

These all work fairly well, but are not my personal favorites.

Tea Strainer: Many pyrographers use this, but I feel it is a little too rough on my tools. To use this method, take a simple metal tea strainer and give your nib a little scrape to brush off any excess char that might be getting in the way of a clean burn.

Parrafin Wax: This is a fairly new method that I learned about from Pat, the creator of the Optima 1 pyrography machine. You simply touch your nib to the wax while it is hot. The wax will burn right off and rid your nib of that extra buildup on the nib. It works just fine, but I didn’t enjoy the smoke it gave off. It is the exact same as a candle burning, though.

Sand Paper: I don’t recommend this for any wire tip burners. It is too rough on their delicate wires. Even with the bulk of a solid-nibbed burner, you will want to be gentle and go easy on the sanding. It will wear your nibs down over time, and this is why many pyrographers will even cringe at the idea of mentioning this option. This is a “use the tools you have on hand” situation. Since you already have sand paper, using it to carefully, and gently scrape off excess char buildup on your solid-nibbed burners just makes sense.

Damp High Heat Sponge: This is was soldering iron users use, and it works pretty well to get big chunks of char off. It won’t clean your nib’s surface completely, but it will keep your lines smooth. Does require minimal prep of dampening the sponge before you start burning, but is great because you can use it while it is hot. Be sure to use a high heat sponge for this.

In a pinch and with solid-nibbed burners, sand paper can work. I like a damp high-heat sponge as well. Not as big of a fan of the parrafin wax or the tea strainer, but I know other people in our community are. Do what works best for you!

What Woodburning Tool is Right for Me?

Choosing a burner can be quite difficult. There are so many brands, so many options, so many nibs and it can all be a bit confusing…

But before we dive into the price ranges and styles of tools, I want to start with an important reminder:

the quality of your art isn’t defined by the cost of your tools.

The tools we use are undeniably important, but at the end of the day, it’s all about the user and what works best for them. Many artists can create incredible work with the simplest, most affordable tools, showing that skill and creativity matter more than price. On the flip side, even the fanciest tools can feel frustrating, like struggling to get solid lines.

Now, lets talk about the function of tools. When you are looking into a wood burning tool, I like to think that you need to consider a couple things when choosing:

1. Price

2. Use

3. Style

Price - What will my money get me?

Price is first because, well, your budget is your budget and wood burning tools can range in price from $15-$300+, so lets starthere.

I like to think that there is 4 different levels in price.

LEVEL 1: $15 USD

These are value tools that usually just have an on/off switch, recommended only if you are doing one project. They may come with several nib options but take some time to heat up and are a bit bulky to hold. This one from Walnut Hollow has been tried, tested and true. Get 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15

If you can invest a little more money, especially if you want to continue pyrography, we recommend going up, at least one more level.

LEVEL 2: $30 USD

These are usually your solid-nibbed wood burning tools with temperature control. They usually come with several interchangeable nibs, are portable, but take a little while to heat and cool. Still slightly bulky, but for learning, exploring and understanding the art of pyrography, this price range is what you should be looking for.

Be weary of anything around this price or cheaper, especially off of amazon…

We love the Walnut Hollow Versa tool. This was our first burner, and after trying many many others, this is still one we recommend for beginners and large projects the most! Click here to get yours and make sure to checkout with 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15

LEVEL 3: $80 USD to $120 USD

These are considered professional level machines, or entry level wire nib burners. Most come with interchangeable nibs. They may be lower quality wire nibs, when they are interchangeable, that may need some gentle tweaking before use or with a limited number of nibs, but this option is good if you want to learn what nib you like best. The grip will be more pen-like, it will have decent temperature control, and it will heat and cool faster than the previous tools. They are lighter weight machines and are not meant for heavy use.

Again, we love Walnut Hollow. Click here to get yours and make sure to checkout with 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15

LEVEL 4: $200 USD and Up:

These are your professional machines. These are sturdy, heavy duty, professional equipment. A lot of the time you will need to buy the machine separate from the pens/nibs. Many of the nibs are hand formed. There are options for pen choices(fixed pen and interchangeable options) and tons of individual options for nib choices (flow, spade, writing, shading transfer hot stamps). Some companies will customize nibs, and some offer such a wide range you wont need customization (looking at you Razertip). The grip of these machines will be pen-like, it will have excellent temperature control(in some cases precise to the last degree), it will heat and cool in seconds, and in general these machines will reach much higher temperatures. Some great companies, our top three, include Razertip, Tekchic, PJL Enterprises.

Use - How will I use my wood burning tool?

ONE TIME USE - If you are planning on using a wood burning tool for just one project, then go ahead and get yourself a single temperature, solid-nibbed value wood burning tool. A tool like the Walnut Hollow Value Tool is around $15 (Get 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15). It comes with several nib options and you will be able to complete your project.

HOBBIEST and PROFESSIONALS - If you plan on doing more than one project, or very large projects, then we highly recommend that you get yourself a solid-nibbed, temperature-controlled woodburning tool. The Walnut Hollow Versatool is our favorite. This tool is so versatile, inexpensive (around $30 - get 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15), comes with a bunch of useful nibs, and works like a dream. This could easily be the only tool you buy. The level of detail that you can achieve with this one tool is astounding. Just go look at the #versatool to see what I mean. There are many professional wood burning artists who only use this tool.

PROFESSIONALS - If you are burning more than a couple times a week, then you should invest or start saving up to invest in a proper professional machine. These machines will decrease your time wasted waiting for you tools to heat/cool, will allow you to have a more ergonomic grip while working, they will allow for quicker nib changes, and will just speed up your whole process. They are worth the investment. Some great companies include Razertip, Tekchic, PJL Enterprises.

STATIONARY OR MOBILE - Will you have a dedicated wood burning station, or will you be on the move? This is something to consider when choosing the right burner for you. Some do not pack or travel well, while others are made to be portable.

Style - Solid vs Wire Nibs

For a detailed explanation between these two styles, check out the blog post: Wire Tip Vs. Solid Tip Burner. In a nutshell:

SOLID: A Solid-nibbed or solid-tipped burner has a long heated shaft, with nibs that screw directly into the shaft. Your hand placement is further away from the surface being burned, and is generally a thick grip that will take some getting used to. They can come in temperature-controlled and single temperature varieties. These range from $15-$30.

Now, a solid-nibbed burner, does have its drawbacks. It takes a little while to heat up and cool down, the grip is thick and requires your hand to be far away from the surface you are burning (can take some getting used to), and the docking station is not very solid. But… this compact machine can burn! It’s great for covering large areas too as a solid nib burner will retain its heat better than a wire burner. We recommend this tool, or something similar be in every wood burning artists tool bag.

There is also an amazing nib called the Transfer Nib. It is amazing for transferring images to wood precisely and quickly. Check out this blog post on Using Heat To Transfer Images Onto Wood.

WIRE: A wire nib burner, or often called a professional burner, generally has a more pen-like appearance with a wire at the end that heats up. Your hand placement is much closer to the surface burning. The machine heats and cools quickly. These usually have a solid docking station, great temperature control, and a wide range of nib options.

The different nibs can be changed in a variety of ways for these wire nib burners.

1. FIXED NIB - Some people prefer to have the entire pen switch out. It does decrease the chances of having connection issues, because changing nibs is so easy. These pens with a fixed nib usually just plug in quite quickly and easily. This is a more expensive option than the interchangeable nib, but more convenient and they tend to last longer than the interchangeable nib pens.

2. INTERCHANGEABLE NIB - This can be done in a couple ways. Sometimes the wire nib is in its own housing, and the housing switches out. Other times, you will fine that you are unscrewing the actual wire, and replacing it with a different wire. The ones in their own housing can be changed quicker and easier with less issue. I have found that when you are changing out just the wire, you need to be careful to make sure that all the connections are solid or your burner wont heat properly. Always test your temperature after switching out nibs.

Choose your Burner

Now that you know the different options, and what you should consider, it’s time to choose a burner. Here are some burners that we have personally held in our hands:

Here are some websites and Amazon Affiliate Links to the companies I trust: (Wood Burn Corner receives a small portion if you purchase through these links, or look below to visit the individual website’s of each manufacturer.)

Walnut Hollow:

Click here to visit Walnut Hollow’s site. Below are our two favourite Walnut Hollow tools:

The Walnut Hollow Versatool

and The Creative Wood Burner.

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Tekchic:

Check out Tekchic - this machine is powerful, compact and has a decent grip on the pen.

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TruArt:

This machine is also really reliable and gets nice and hot. A bit thicker on the hand grip but works well.

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PJL Enterprises - Optima 1:

Visit PJL Enterprises to see their collection of tools. These pens are more pen-like, machine gets hot and the switches are very satisfying.

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Razertip:

Take a look at the Razertip’s options and their wide selection. They have new digital burners with a bit of a higher heat, but even their older models are one of our favourites.

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