Wire Tip Vs. Solid Tip Burner

The difference between a wire tip/nib burner and a solid tip/nib burner primarily lies in their design and functionality.

Each type has its own set of advantages and disadvantages.

Wire Tip/nib Burner:

• Design: Utilizes a pen-like device with tips made of a looped wire or a wire nib. On some pens, these tips can be changed out, allowing for a wide variety of tip shapes and sizes (more on interchangeable nibs at the end). They are usually thinner and easier to hold, as the grip is located closer to the nib, allowing the pen to feel like an actual pen making it ideal for comfort, especially if you are burning for longer periods at a time.

• Temperature Control: Wire tip burners typically offer more precise temperature control, which can be adjusted quickly. This allows for quicker and more detailed and varied shading techniques.

• Durability: Generally these pens are more delicate than a solid nib making them more susceptible to damage over time. Proper care and a lighter hand will help them last longer.

• Learning Curve: Might have a slightly steeper learning curve due to the delicacy of the wire tips and the precision required in handling them.

• Heat Up Time: Generally, wire tips heat up and cool down much more quickly than solid tips.

Solid Tip/Nib Burner:

• Design: Features a pen-like device with a solid brass or copper tip. The variety is usually more limited compared to a wire nib, the pen is thicker and clunkier to hold and the grip is usually further away from the nib making it slightly more difficult to control, especially if burning for longer periods of time).

• Temperature Control: Solid tip burners can be less precise in temperature control compared to wire tip burners, and adjustments may take longer to affect the tip temperature. However, because they are thick and solid, they do retain the heat making them ideal for large projects that require a lot of dark burning.

• Durability: Solid tips tend to be more durable than wire tips because they are less fragile and less susceptible to bending or breaking.

• Learning Curve: For beginners, solid tip burners might be easier to start with due to their durability and less delicate handling requirements.

• Heat Up Time: Solid tips generally take longer to heat up and cool down than wire tips, but, as stated earlier, they retain their hear better than a wire nib does.

Application:

• Wire Tip Burners are preferred for detailed art, fine shading, and where quick temperature adjustment is necessary.

• Solid Tip Burners are often used for more basic designs, outlines, and when learning the basics of pyrography as well as covering large areas with shading.

which one gets hotteR?

In terms of reaching a higher temperature, both types can be capable of very high temperatures suitable for pyrography. The key difference lies in how quickly they reach these temperatures and how precisely those temperatures can be controlled during the work.

Wire tip burners generally offer faster heat up times and more precise control, making it seem like they can get hotter faster, but in terms of maximum temperature capabilities, it's more about the specific equipment and its design rather than the tip type alone.

The maximum temperature that a wire tip burner or a solid tip burner can reach often depends more on the specific model and manufacturer rather than the type of tip itself.

However, there are some general characteristics related to how each type manages and conducts heat that can influence their operating temperatures:

Wire Tip Burners are designed for precise control and can reach very high temperatures quickly due to their thin wire construction, which has less mass to heat. This design allows for rapid heat transfer and adjustment, making them suitable for intricate work that requires changing temperatures for different effects. Because of their design, wire tip burners can effectively operate at both low and high temperatures, making them versatile for a range of detailed work.

Solid Tip Burners, on the other hand, have a larger mass in their tips, which means they may take longer to reach the desired temperature. However, once heated, they can retain heat longer due to the larger thermal mass. Solid tips can also reach high temperatures, but the rate of heat increase and the precision in temperature control may not match that of wire tip burners. The heat distribution over the solid tip is more uniform, which can be advantageous for certain types of shading and consistent line work.

Interchangeable nibs on wire tip burners:

Interchangeable nibs for wood burning tools allow artists to switch between different tip styles for various effects in their projects. These nibs can range from fine points for detailed work to larger, flat tips for shading or transferring images.

Pros: Interchangeability offers flexibility and creativity, enabling users to achieve a wide range of textures and depths in their art without needing multiple tools. This versatility is particularly valuable for artists looking to explore different techniques or work on projects that require both detailed and broad work.

Cons: Interchangeable nibs, while versatile, can have drawbacks such as requiring time to switch between nibs, which might interrupt the workflow. There's also a learning curve in mastering different nib types for optimal use. Additionally, the delicate nature of some wire nibs can lead to breakage if not handled with care. Exercise caution when tightening to ensure a complete connection, or your heating may not be even. High-quality interchangeable nibs might come with a higher initial cost, although they offer long-term flexibility and savings from not needing multiple dedicated tools.

In summary, we recommend starting out pyrography with a solid tip/nib burner (the Versa Tool from Walnut Hollow is our favorite! Get 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15).

These are a good basic tool to have in your toolkit and some artists never even upgrade to another tool…

If you plan on burning often, want a faster heat-up time, consider a wire tip burner. Check out What Wood Burning Tool Is Right For Me to learn more about choosing a new tool.

Woodcare 101: Preserving Your Pyrography Art

Pyrography is a beautiful art form that turns simple pieces of wood into timeless works of art. But like all forms of art, your pyrography projects are subject to the ravages of time, exposure, and wear.

Luckily, there are proven ways to protect your artwork and keep it looking as vibrant as the day you made it (or purchased it!).

Rules of thumb:

Keep Out of Moisture

• Especially if unfinished, any water (drips or splashes) can leave permanent marks on your wood. Even a sweaty fingerprint can linger on the surface.

• Enough general moisture can warp and bend the wood. The thinner your wood slice, the less moisture or humidity in the air it takes to start reshaping the wood.

• Long exposure to moisture can cause warping so hang your wood slices away from kitchen sinks, outdoors or any bathrooms…

• DO NOT place wood in dishwashers or let them soak in the kitchen sink

Keep Out Of Sunshine

• Sun will fade finished and unfinished wood slices. Keep out of direct sun to help prolong the inevitable.

• Burning deeply will help keep the artwork looking crisp. Shading and light burning will fade much faster.

Choose the Right Wood for your project

Your first line of defense against wear and tear starts with the type of wood you choose for your projects. Hardwoods like oak and birch generally last longer and are less susceptible to damage compared to softwoods like pine. If possible, go for kiln-dried wood, which has reduced moisture content, making it less prone to warping and cracking.

Check out this blog post for more information on wood: Best Wood for Pyrography

Sealing the Wood

Sealing your pyrography artwork with a finish adds a layer of protection against moisture, dirt, and UV rays. It also enhances the visual elements of your design by adding a glossy or matte finish.

If your artwork is going to be displayed outdoors or in a sunny location, consider using a UV-protective sealant. This helps in preventing the colors from fading and the wood from turning gray. For added moisture protection, particularly for outdoor pieces, use marine-grade sealants. Some resin’s also protect your wood from the elements.

Check out Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art for more on this topic.

keeping your cutting boards, wooden spoons and other functional art looking like it did on day one is possible with a little bit of maintenance.

To prevent discoloration, cracking, warping and fading, follow the instructions below:

• Keep away from excessive moisture (do not soak the product or run it through the dishwasher): hand wash only

• Wax or oil your products: the more you use your stuff, the more you will need to oil it. I recommend oiling once a month (or every other month) for products that are used daily. use the color and texture of the wood to judge when to oil; if it looks lighter and dry, it’s time. Oiling or waxing your wood will enhance the richness and prevent any cracking.

Handling and Cleaning

Always handle your pyrography art with clean hands to avoid transferring oils and dirt onto the wood surface. To clean your artwork, gently wipe it down with a soft, lint-free cloth. Avoid using water or cleaning products as they can penetrate the sealant and damage the wood.

Storage Tips

If you need to store your pyrography artwork:

• Keep it in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.

• Avoid storing it in damp or humid areas to prevent mold and warping.

• Consider wrapping it in acid-free paper for extra protection.

• Protect the corners of your art by wrapping with pieces of cardboard and taping them secure.

Your pyrography artwork is not just a piece of wood; it's a piece of you. Like any valuable object, it deserves to be treated with care and respect. Proper preservation techniques will help you enjoy your creations for many years to come.

Burning is Art. Art is Therapy.

While many people enjoy pyrography as a hobby or artistic pursuit, it can also be a powerful tool for promoting relaxation and mental well-being.

“Burning is art. Art is therapy”

Rachel Struass

Here are some reasons pyrography can be used to support mental health:

Stress Relief:

One of the benefits of pyrography is its ability to promote stress relief. When engaging in this activity, individuals are often able to disconnect from the stressors in their daily lives and focus solely on their creative pursuits. It can provide a distraction from everyday life. When you're focused on the activity, you may be less likely to ruminate on negative thoughts. This can help reduce stress levels and promote a sense of calm.

Mindfulness:

Pyrography also encourages mindfulness, which is the practice of being present and fully engaged in the moment. When working on a pyrography project, individuals must focus their attention on the details of the design, which can help them remain mindful and present. Wood burning requires us to go slower than we are used to with other mediums. This slowed down pace can induce a state of "flow," which is characterized by complete absorption in the task at hand.

Improved Mood:

Studies have shown that engaging in creative activities can improve mood and promote a sense of well-being. Pyrography is no exception. By providing a creative outlet, this art form can help individuals feel a sense of accomplishment and satisfaction, leading to improved mood.

Increased Self-Expression:

Pyrography allows individuals to express themselves in a unique and personal way. By choosing their own designs and colors, individuals can create pieces that are reflective of their personal style and preferences. Wood burning allowing you to express your emotions, thoughts, and ideas in a nonverbal way. This can help increase self-expression and boost confidence.

Sense of Community:

Here, at Wood Burn Corner we are all about community and sharing each others art with the world. Being part of Burn Club can provide a sense of belonging and social support, which can be beneficial for mental health. We support and healp each other through the ups and downs of learning a new skill and art form as well the trials and tribulations of owning a creative business. If you want to know how to get more involved in the community, click here!

Pyrography is an excellent activity for promoting relaxation, mindfulness, and mental well-being. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced artist, engaging in this activity can provide a range of mental health benefits, including stress relief, improved mood, and increased self-expression.

Now, pair up pyrography with radial symmetry and it becomes a whole new world of practicing mindfulness!

Radial Symmetry patterns, also commonly known as a Mandala, have been recognized by psychology as a therapeutic tool. Swiss psychologist Carl Jung said they’re like representations of our mind. He thought they made it easier for us to concentrate on, transform, and internalize subconscious thoughts. His belief was that we project our emotions and thoughts into the mandala designs.

“For me, a radial symmetry pattern, or a mandala inspired art piece, is the end result of a mindfulness journey.”

-Basia Chmielowic

These repetitive patterns are what I get at the end of a creative meditation, a zone out, a doodle session (whatever you want to call it!).

It is a form of meditation for me as the repetition of each pattern allows me not to think about the end result, but rather a focus on each small section at a time.

Repeating the same design helps me zone out and immerse myself in the moment.

Two ways to learn how to draw your own mandala designs:

1. Read:

Choose from two books full of mandala inspired patterns complete with written instructions on how to draw your own designs from scratch!

The Community Book of Templates offers designs by Basia and the community in a variety of themes as well as pyrography basics.

The Presence Bundle features Basia’s designs inspired by the art deco & art nouveau movements. No pyro information but links to resources to get you started.

These two items each include a radial symmetry guide and a set of their own unique designs to practice pyrography with. Either way, you will learn to create endless unique radial symmetry designs!

2. Watch:

A step-by-step video tutorial on DIY radial symmetry patterns and how to wood burn them:

$10.00

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Or the video tutorial on DIY radial symmetry patterns without the pyro part:

$8.00

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Intro to Wood as a Pyrography Artist

There are many surfaces one can burn on when it comes to pyrography. From egg shell to canvas, the world is your oyster! One rule of thumb to stick to is burning only on natural surfaces (versus human made or chemically treated items). Grab your Free Safety Guide to stay safe while burning. If you like experimenting, you can check out the blog post: Pyrography on Odd Objects.

The most common surface for pyrography is on wood!

Wood is usually readily available and comes in many different shapes, sizes, and colors It makes for a great canvas for wood burning. There are many different species of wood to choose from. Read on to learn more about wood or check out the Top 9 Wood Species to Burn On according to us and the wood burning community! There are also different ways wood reacts to burning on depending on how it was cut…

Always be mindful of what you are burning on. Some wood smoke is poisonous: check out the blog post about Which Woods to Avoid Burning On.

Wood Basics

Hardwood verus Softwood

The main difference between the two is not necessarily the density of the wood but rather the type of tree they come from.

Hardwoods are usually broad-leaved (deciduous) trees - the ones that loose their leaves every fall. Examples include ash, beech, birch, mahogany, maple, oak, teak, and walnut.

Softwoods are evergeen (coniferous) trees - the tree’s that have needles and cones that stay green year round. Examples include basswood, cedar, cypress, fir, pine, spruce, and redwood.

Generally, softwoods are cheaper because they grow faster and in abundance. Because of this, they are less durable so they are used more for building materials like lumber, plywood, and paper products. Hardwood is more common in high quality furniture, decks and flooring due to its hardness and durability.

The softer the wood is, it can be said that the easier it is to burn on. However, because of the way these tree’s woods differ, they make for very different canvases when burning on them using pyrography techniques…

Softwood tree’s (typically evergreens) create sap. Sap is not our friend in pyrography, especially when first learning the craft. Very often, common woods like pine are sappy and tricky to burn on. Although I have heard of some artists enjoying burning on pine, we would recommend trying a different wood for your first time.

WOOD Slices

The way a log is cut will change your canvas shape and the way your tool works on the wood’s surface.

As you can see here, the edge grain is the outer edge of your slice.

The end grain is the end of a log. This cut is vertical (when looking at a cut tree, like in this photo of the log on the ground) and typically gives you a circular wood slice with bark all around the edges (or none if trimmed off). The grain here is visible in rings.

A face grain cut is the log cut horizontally (on a log laying on the ground) which can give you square or rectangular wood slice canvases and only two edges will be covered in bark (or none if those are trimmed off). The wood grain is visible across the surface and generally spans horizontally across the wood. The wood is usually referred to as planks with this cut.

Wood Grain

and how it effects pyrography

A common way to explain the grain of wood is using a handful of straws. Renee of @it’sdavidandrenee brought this up at our Pyrography Summit as an example to explain the way finishes (ie. paints, stains etc…) react when applied depending on the way the wood is cut.

This is also true for pyrography. The grain of the wood can affect the flow of your tools on the surface, the texture and appearance of the burned lines, as well as the overall quality of the final artwork.

Imagine the straws as a log. When you cut an end grain piece, you will usually get a circular shape. This makes all the “straws holes” face up. They are porous and will suck in any liquids, stains, paints etc… Burning on this is slightly harder so generally you need more heat and a consistent speed.

Cut it the other way, face grain, and you get the length of the straws. Burning along the grain (following the grain, up and down in the photo to the right) is easier as the nib of the tool usually falls into a grain groove and burn along it. Burn against the grain (side to side) and you can get little blobs of burn, or stop marks as you move across - try turning your heat down and have more of a consistent speed. Look ahead for any grain lines so you can adjust your speed. Reduce your pressure and let the burner do the work as you just gently, but firmly, guide it.

So what wood is the best to burn on?

We have compiled a list of woods that we enjoy burning on for a variety of reasons. These include Amazon Associate links to great options for these particular wood varieties:

Best Wood for Pyrography

In a nutshell, here are our top 9 woods for pyrography:

1. Basswood (image to the right)

2. Cherry

3. Birch

4. Aspen

5. Walnut

6. Maple

7. Sourwood

8. Poplar

9. Cedar

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Want to learn more about pyrography?

Join the Burn Club Community

or check out this blog post: Start Here if you are NEW to Wood Burning

Finishing Your Wood Burned Art: How and Why to Finish Your Wood Burned Art

Finishing wood slice art can provide several benefits, including protection from environmental factors, enhancement of its natural beauty, increased durability, ease of cleaning, and personal preference.

By applying a finish, the wood slice art can be preserved for a longer period of time while also making it more resistant to scratches, dents, and other types of wear and tear. Wood burned marks and designs on the wood, especially shallow burns; such as shading, naturally fade with age and exposure to air, and particularly sunlight!

The finish can also bring out the unique grain patterns and color of the wood slice art, adding to its aesthetic appeal. It can also darken the wood considerably, sometimes even making wood burned designs non visible so make sure you test it on the back of the wood slice before committing to the whole piece.

When choosing the right finish for your project, there are a few things you should consider. 

Time, cost, use, and desired effect.

• How long do you want to wait for it to dry/cure? 

• How much money do you want to spend? 

• Will your item be used with food? 

• Will children be playing with the item? 

• Do you want it shiny or matte?

Here are 5 of our favorite finishes to use and why we like to use them:

No matter which finish you select, be sure to try it on your specific type of wood before you apply it to your finished art piece that you have worked so hard on.

The number of art pieces that have been ruined by finishes makes our heart hurt. Don’t let it happen to you: test before you apply! Each finish looks different on different types of wood. Always test!

Also, be warned, if your wood has spots or imperfections in it, the majority if finishes will cause them to stand out even more. This includes sanding lines (if you didn’t use a fine grit to finish smoothing our your wood, the lines from sandpaper may show).

Please note: These include Amazon Assoicate links for our favorite products. We receive a very small portion if you choose to purchase our recommendations.

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Food Safe Finishes

The most important thing to consider, or the thing to consider first, is will the wood slice be used with food? General finishes are not safe to be used on items like cutting boards and wooden utensils. Be sure you are using cutting board oil or cutting board wax, because many companies also have oils that are meant for furniture which is not food safe.

Key differences between oils and waxes:

• Penetration vs. Protection: Oil conditioners and finishing oils penetrate into the material to nourish and protect from within, whereas waxes primarily provide a protective surface coating.

• Appearance: Waxes can alter the appearance more significantly by adding a sheen or gloss, while oils and conditioners tend to enhance the natural look of the material.

• Maintenance: Wax finishes may need more frequent reapplication but offer more immediate surface protection against water and scratches. Oils and conditioners may provide longer-lasting nourishment but might not offer as strong a barrier against surface damage.

A combination of wax and oil can provide both protection and a natural, safe finish for wood. If using wax and oil finishes separately, apply the oils first to allow them to penetrate the wood, and then the wax to seal all that goodness in.

Here are our top two food safe oils we use:

Walrus Oil

This us one of our favourite companies, and one the community likes to use as well. Please note, they do not harm any animals!

Walrus Oil Cutting Board Oil uses coconut oil, mineral oil, vitamin E and beeswax (be mindful of people who have a coconut allergy). Walrus cutting board oil is liquid and doesn't solidify. It adds a rich color (the more layers you put, the richer the colors and deeper the grain will be), it won't leave a funky taste, and goes on nice and smooth. You can finish it simply with their Wood Wax for Cutting Boards or even just use the the mentioned wax on its own.

Howards Products, Inc.

The Cutting Board Oil contains food grade mineral oil stabilized with Vitamin E, will not go rancid and is odourless and tasteless.

The one thing I will say about the Conditioner is that dirt and grime can collect a little more easily on it once finished, but the color it brings out of the wood, especially basswood, is gorgeous. This one is a mix of oil and wax.

The Wax is probably one of the best we have used for wood surfaces that are used with more wet items (i.e. pickles, cucumbers, tomatoes…) We found it to give the charcuterie boards the most protection from stains and marks.

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General Finishes

Minwax Fast Drying PolyURETHANE 

It is a good idea to use a spray version versus a brush-on version with pieces that have added mediums on it (like watercolour, gold leaf etc…) because wiping/brushing the finish can cause the color to spread or bleed or come off.

Choosing gloss, semi-gloss, or matte are all based on personal preference. Some of us love that shine, and some of us want it to be completely matte. A shiny glossed coat can help protect it from finger prints showing and dirt collecting but may show brush stroked more...

Water Based PolyCRYLIC 

We got a lot of responses with polyacrylic, and this is one we like to use as well. Polyacrylic spray-on and brush-on only comes as water based, but comes in satin, gloss, and high gloss sheens. It dries quickly, but can take a long time to fully cure, so be careful setting anything on top of something finished in polyacrylic. It is not as durable as polyurethane, but it isn't as toxic to your lungs or as smelly. It is fairly clear (get the crystal clear kind) but can get milky if you put it on too thick over a dark burn. Also, because it's fairly thin in viscosity and dries quickly, you can get brush strokes from the application that stay, It can be hard to get a really smooth finish.

Key Differences between a polyurethane and a polycrylic:

• Composition and Odor: Polyurethane can be oil or water-based, with oil-based versions having a stronger odor and longer drying times. Polyacrylic is water-based, with low odor and quick drying times.

• Appearance and Yellowing: Oil-based polyurethane deepens the color of the wood and may yellow over time, which is less desirable for light woods. Polyacrylic remains clear, making it suitable for maintaining the natural color of the wood.

• Durability and Application: While both finishes provide good protection, oil-based polyurethane is generally more durable and suitable for high-traffic areas. Polyacrylic is easier to apply, dries faster, and is better for quick projects or light to medium wear surfaces.
  

What we use for Longevity and ultimate protection: Resin

Art Resin

Epoxy Resin makes for a gorgeous, well-protected finish, just don't put it in the sun or moisture, it may cloud it depending on the brand.

We like Art Resin as our Resin of choice. Resin takes a while to cure, is super thick, and requires precise mixing (it has a super easy mixing guide online). You also need other tools like a level and a heated tool to remove bubbles and smooth it. Depending on how large your piece is, a lighter can work. For larger pieces, using a torch is much easier.

It can also be messy to work with because it will spill over the edges, but the finished look is gorgeous. Keeping it out of dust particles while its drying is crucial (we cover our slices with a simple cardboard box).

It makes whatever you burned or added to the slice pop! It resists yellowing from the sun but can eventually yellow over time.

You have to make a new batch every time you use it, and it is also a bit pricey, but it is gorgeous!

Fun Tip:

If you don't want the color of the wood to change, Aly of @alyoopsartistry suggests to use isolation coat  before adding your finish. This is awesome to use when you want the colour of your piece to stay as is before adding the resin.

Click here to read about why you may consider leaving your wood slice unfinished.

How to apply a finish to your wood slice:

Finishing wood burned art can help protect it and enhance its appearance. Here are some steps you can follow to finish your wood burned art:

1. Sand the wood: Use sandpaper to smooth the surface of the wood and remove any rough spots. Click here to see the best way to sand your slices. Having a smooth surface is crucial as the sanding lines will be more visible with majority of finishes added.

2. Remove dust: Clean the wood surface with a clean, dry cloth to remove any dust or debris.

3. Apply a wood conditioner or oil: This will help the wood absorb the finish evenly. Apply the wood conditioner or oil with a clean cloth and let it soak in for about 15 minutes before wiping off any excess.

4. Choose your finish: There are many types of finishes you can use on wood burned art, such as polyurethane, lacquer, or wax. Choose the finish that best fits your desired outcome.

5. Apply the finish: Apply the finish with a brush, foam brush, or cloth according to the manufacturer's instructions. Make sure to apply an even coat and avoid drips.

6. Let it dry: Allow the finish to dry completely before handling the wood.

7. Apply additional coats: Depending on the type of finish, you may need to apply additional coats. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the recommended drying time between coats.

8. Buff the finish: After the final coat has dried, use a clean cloth to buff the surface of the wood to a smooth and shiny finish.

Following these steps will help ensure that your wood burned art is protected and looks great for years to come.

When to re-finish your wood art

In general, it is recommended to reapply a finish to wood art every 1-3 years to maintain its appearance and protect it from wear and tear. However, if the wood art is exposed to harsh conditions such as direct sunlight, high humidity, or frequent handling, you may need to apply a finish more often.

It's important to also keep an eye on the finish and look for signs of wear or damage such as cracking, peeling, or discoloration. If you notice any of these signs, it's time to refinish the wood art to prevent further damage.

Ultimately, the best way to determine how often you should finish your wood art is to monitor its condition regularly and apply a new coat of finish as needed to maintain its appearance and protection.

Functional wood art, such as cutting boards, serving trays, and furniture, may require more frequent refinishing than decorative wood art since they are exposed to more wear and tear.

How to Make a Keyhole Hanger by Hand

One way to hang your wood slice art is by using a keyhole hanger (also known as a mounting slot), which allows the slice to be hung flush against the wall.

In this guide, I will provide step-by-step instructions on how to make a keyhole hanger on a wood slice.

By following these simple steps, you can create a unique and personalized way to display your wood slice art.

This method uses a hand held router which you can borrow from someone or rent from your local tool library if you have one! You can also use a router table if you have one.

Please note, any links below are affiliate links to the exact tools I am actually using and love!

Materials needed:

• Your wood slice

• Pencil and eraser

• Measuring tape

• Clamps or easy DIY guide: a straight edged scrap wood piece and nail gun or hammer and nails

• Sandpaper

• Router with a Tipped Keyhole Bit:

Wood comes in all different sizes, thicknesses and shapes.

Measure the router bit with your wood slice to ensure the length is correct and doesn't go through your slice.

How to make a keyhole hanger on a wood slice

Step 1: Determine the Placement of the Keyhole Hanger

Decide where you want to place the keyhole hanger on the back of the wood slice. Make sure it is centered and level. Use a pencil to mark the spot.

I like to measure 2 inches from the top of all my wood slices to ensure there is enough space for the hole and enough wood left at the top to keep the hole strong. If it is too close to the edge, the wood can split or crack.

Measuring a square or rectangle piece is easy, but rounds are a little trickier, especially if they are imperfect circles, ovals or other shapes…

My trick to measure a wood slice that is not a square or rectangle:

This is not a 100% exact method. Wood rounds are often imperfect and come in all kinds of unique shapes and sizes. What I like about the keyhole hanger technique is that when the slice is hanging, it’s flush against the wall. So even if your measurements were off slightly, the friction of the wood on the wall allows for some forgiveness in the levelling and you can tweak it a bit once it is up. For really stubborn pieces that you may have mismeasured and they really don’t hang level, you can apply a tiny amount of double sided sticky tape or even sticky tack to the back side to make it more level. Do not try adjusting the keyhole by making it bigger or longer as the structure of the wood will deteriorate when manipulated enough times… Also, know that any sticky substances on wood will stain in, but this will be on the back of the wood piece.

First measure the largest point across your wood slice.

Then take a square tool and roughly eyeball the level. I use the edge of the table that I am working as a guide, lining up the bottom of my square to the edge.

Once I draw a line up, 2 inches away from the tops, I test how it hangs before I drill a hole by holding it up on the mark I just made and roughly seeing if it hangs level.

step 2: make a quick guide (optional) and clamp down your slice

This DIY guide is optional because you can essentially free-hand the hole. I like to make the guide because it only takes seconds and then keeps my holes nice and straight.

Start by grabbing any scrap wood (ensure it has a straight edge - this edge will be your guide) and attach it to your artwork. I am nailing it in temporarily but you can use clamps if you do not have a nail gun. Clamps get in the way a little which is why I prefer to nail it, If your wood slice is big enough, you can hang the clamps over the edge of the table, or clamp the guide AND the slice to the table for maximum stability.

First, I measure the distance from the furthest edge at the top, and then the bottom - this ensures that it’s level.

Make sure to measure for the size of your tool.

Tip: Once I measure everything out, before I nail down my guide, I line up the router to where I am about to drill the hole just to double check my measurements!

I used a 23 gauge headless finishing nailer because the nails are small and short which make them easy to take off once complete and you don’t have a big nail hole after you take off your guide. You can simply hammer in two temporary nails (two so the guide stays in one spot - one at the top and one at the bottom of your scrap wood). Ensure that the nail you choose will not go through your wood slice.

Once my guide is on, I clamp everything down to the table.

step 3: drill your hole

Now comes the fun part, drilling the hole.

Using the router, I line up my bit against my guide and over the mark I made on the wood slice and I drill a hole, but only straight down at first.

I like to slightly lean the edge of the tool on the guide, coming in on a bit of an angle so the weight and pressure of the tool is on the guide, not me trying to hold it up in position.

Once you've drilled your hole, your tool will lay flat on the wood.

The hole should be at least 1/4 inch deep so a nail can fit snugly in the slot, just make sure your wood is thick enough so the hole doesn’t go through.

With the bit inside the hole, move the router up, away from you, very slowly to create the nook for the nail to sit in.

Move slowly.

Once you have gone up about 3/4 of an inch, turn off your tool, wait for it to stop and remove the tool from the hole by carefully sliding the bit down and out of the hole at the bottom.

Step 4: Sand the Wood Slice

Use sandpaper to smooth out any rough edges around the drilled hole and the wood slice.

And voila! You made a keyhole hanger!

You can now hang your art, flush to a wall anywhere you like by sliding the wood slice onto a screw. Adjust the wood slice until it is level and centered on the screw.

Learn to Wood Burn + Make Your Own Radial Symmetry Patterns!

Art has long been recognized as a form of therapy that promotes relaxation, mindfulness, and creativity. One specific form of art that has recently gained popularity for its therapeutic benefits is radial symmetry art, paired with pyrography, or wood burning.

Radial symmetry is a design technique where an image is divided into equal sections that radiate from a central point. This type of art can be found in nature, such as in the petals of a flower or the scales of a fish, and it can also be created by artists using various mediums. When drawing radial symmetry art, an individual can focus their attention on the repetition and balance of the design, which can promote a meditative state of mind and relieve stress.

Pyrography, or wood burning, involves using a heated tool to create designs on wood. When combined with radial symmetry art, the individual can transfer their design onto a wooden surface and use the pyrography tool to burn the design into the wood. The act of burning the design into the wood can be therapeutic in and of itself, as it requires focus, patience, and precision.

One of the benefits of using radial symmetry art and pyrography as a form of therapy is that it is accessible to individuals of all skill levels. The design can be as simple or complex as the individual desires, and the pyrography tool can be used to create varying degrees of shading and texture. The act of creating something with your own hands, regardless of the outcome, can be a powerful way to reduce stress and increase feelings of self-efficacy.

In addition to its therapeutic benefits, radial symmetry art and pyrography can also be a fun and creative hobby. The finished product can be used as a decorative piece or given as a personalized gift to a loved one.

Want to LEARN these TWO very CREATIVE + RELAXING ART FORMS?

Here are two was:

1. Read:

   Choose from two books full of mandala inspired patterns complete with written instructions on how to draw your own designs from scratch!

The Community Book of Templates (Radial Symmetry Edition) offers designs by Basia and the community in a variety of themes.

Presence Bundle features Basia’s designs inspired by the art deco and art nouveau movements.

These two books each include a radial symmetry guide and a set of their own unique designs to practice pyrography with.

2. Watch

Click on the image below to get both relaxing + creative hobbies in one!!

Intro to Wood Burning + DIY Radial Symmetry Patterns

$10.00

or choose from one below:

Intro to Wood Burning

$8.00

DIY Radial Symmetry Patterns

$8.00

WHAT TO EXPECT

• Step-by-step instructions on how to wood burn and pyrography basics like safety, techniques and more (free template included)

• Step-by-step instructions on how to create your own radial symmetry patterns and transfer them onto wood!

RESOURCES AND TOOLS

Join us with your pyrography tools, a wood slice and a design (included in your purchase or you can bring your own) if you plan on burning along with us for intro to wood burning. Make sure to print the template sized to your wood, along with graphite paper to transfer it onto the slice.

If you don’t have any pyrography tools or materials and want to burn with us, check out the DIY Wood Burning Kit blog post for resources and links on where to purchase everything you need to get wood burning.

All you need for drawing your own radial symmetry pattern is a piece of paper, pen/pencil, a compass (we can improvise), and a ruler (also optional)!

The combination of radial symmetry art and pyrography is a unique and rewarding form of therapy. By focusing on the repetition and balance of the design and using a heated tool to burn it into wood, individuals can experience a sense of relaxation, mindfulness, and creativity. So why not try your hand at this therapeutic art form and see what you can create?

Happy DRAWING AND Burning!

Best Wood for Pyrography

Wood is the most common surface for pyrography! There are other surfaces you can burn on, but wood is available almost everywhere and is definitely a great place to start if you are new to wood burning.

Always look for unfinished, sanded smooth, and dried wood. These are musts for pyrography.

There are also some woods you should absolutely avoid and that list, you can find here.

And onto what you will want to burn on! Below are the top wood surfaces to burn on according to our own experiences as well as from polling hundreds of pyrographers in the community.

Please note there are affiliate links below. We always link to products we know and love and personally have used ourselves!

Top 9 Wood Surfaces to Burn On

Basswood

Basswood is a very common wood species that is easy to find and easy to burn on.

It is a favorite amongst pyrographers because of its availability, light color (creating nice contrast with burn lines) and for the way it burns. It is easy and smooth to burn on.

The grain is visible, but still smooth. It doesn’t effect your burn. The even light color makes it the perfect canvas for wood burning. It is easily found with the very classic tree bark live edge, making perfect rustic rounds. Oh and the color of the wood only darkens slightly when adding any finishes.

The bonus with basswood is that because it is commonly available, it comes in loads of different shapes, sizes, live edge, no live edge, thick or thin, etc… We know and love Walnut Hollow for their variety of wood as well as the quality! Get 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15 - Walnut Hollow’s collection of Basswood are always sanded smooth and are ready to burn on:

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Cherry

Cherry smells amazing when burning and is such a lovely wood to burn on. There are many variations (color and grain) which may be distracting for some, but for others, this adds character.

It has a warm, reddish tone, rich color to it, and you can create beautifully detailed pyrography art on it at a slightly higher heat setting (or slower pace).

Be careful in adding any finishes (stains or even colourless oils and sealers), as cherry wood darkens quite a bit. You can still see the burn lines, but it decreases the contrast the pyrography marks make.

Here is an example of a cherry wood slice with resin on it. The colour is rich and beautiful but if your design has light shading, it could disappear after a finish is applied!

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Birch

Birch is a harder in structure, when it comes to pyrography, which means you either turn up the heat or move slower with it. Because it is a harder wood, it allows for incredible details.

Even though it is slightly harder to burn on, it still has beautiful qualities like the light blonde color, stunning white live edge bark and subtle grain lines that don’t interfere with the burning. It typically has a bright, creamy-white color or yellowish tint and a satin-like sheen to its finish which makes for nice contrast when burning.

Basia enjoys burning on end grain, like on this round live edge wood slice above, especially when the wood slice has the bark in tact. Rachel prefers face grain wood which has the grain running across the entire wood slice.

In general, birch trees aren't as big (or thick) as other hardwoods, so the slices you get from them usually aren't big either. Because of this, companies make birch wood plywood. As with ANY plywood, these planks use a lot of glues which can be dangerous to burn on. Always wear the safety gear, no matter what.

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Aspen

Aspen burns very similar to basswood in our experience, but isn’t just one solid color. It has lovely variations in color to it. The rounds tend to have more colors and variations so if that doesn’t work for you or your design, try a face grain cut slice (the planks versus the rounds). Not sure what face grain is? Check out our Intro to Wood as a Pyrography Artist blog post to learn more.

Aspen is softer when burning making it feel buttery smooth and satisfying.

The grain are subtle and you can barely feel them at all when burning.

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Walnut

Walnut is such a juicy wood to burn on. It has a lovely medium/dark brownish color to it, and smells amazing when you burn it, however it is more on the expensive side.

This is one of those woods that soaks up finishes and darkens quite a bit when you put any finishes. This could make your lines and shading not as visible… Any light shading will disappear.

However, add a finish to this and just watch the natural grain pop and shine; So much dimension in this wood species!

The grains are visible but don’t interfere with burning.

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Maple

Maple is one of Rachel’s personal favorites to burn on. She love the subtle grain in it (which does not get in the way of burning), and the color of the wood makes a great canvas.

It is harder than basswood, and is just lovely to burn on at a slightly higher heat. It is nice and lightly colored, lending itself well for pyrography. Finishes will darken the surface but not very much so you will not loose your work.

Maple is a bit more costly than basswood, but is worth it.

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Sourwood

Sourwood is one of Basia’s favourites due to the large and intricate live edge bark on it. The bark is so stunning, it creates it’s own frame of sorts!

The surface is lighter in color making a great canvas for burning and even though it is a hardwood, with some patience, higher heat and a slower pace, it is still a pleasure to burn on.

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Poplar

Poplar is another great choice for wood burning. It is another light colored option, although often it has a green tone to it which not everyone likes. There is a process you can take to get rid of this but it must be completed after you burn (because burning on the treatment is dangerous) and may require a bit of sanding so ensure your burn lines are fairly deep.

The grains can get in the way a bit, but otherwise it is a fairly smooth burn. It is quite similar to maple, but less expensive. A great choice for pyrography and very accessible and cheap.

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Cedar

Cedar smells amazing to burn with. It has a beautiful rich red color in the center and a lighter color on its edges.

It burns really nicely and is lovely to work with because is a softer wood. It feels like butter. It is always the wood Basia chooses for practising on when she is letting new students understand pyro tools and the variety of nibs and what they can do because you require less control when the wood is softer, can burn at a higher temperature, therefore allowing you to play around a little.

Beware when staining, that red color deepens quite a bit, so always practice before adding a finish to a cedar wood burned piece.

A great place to learn more about your favorite wood types is at wood-database.com - here you will find all the specs you need!

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Runner-up Wood Surfaces to Burn On

1. Beech

2. Cork

3. Ash

4. Mahogany

5. Alder

6. Sycamore

7. Cypress

8. Willow

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Check out the DO NOT BURN ON list here.

Click Here for pyrography surfaces to burn on that are not wood!

Always wear a mask and follow safety precautions when burning on any type of wood or alternative surface. This is super important regardless of wood type.

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How to get rid of mistakes and graphite/pencil lines

Mistakes. They happen. You can not easily “edit + undo” in pyrography but there are a couple tricks to making mistakes less visible.

This post includes affiliate links - we only recommend items that we have tried and love!

how to get rid of pyrography mistakes:

Razor - This technique is best for lighter burns. Use a razor as a little scraper to remove burn lines that are not too deep. For deeper burns you can still use this trick, however, you will have a dent/groove from the burn and scraping… It will take the contrast away and be less visible though!

Dremel Tool - Same idea as the razor except with a little more power. Depending on the shape of your Dremel bit, you can get into tight corners.

Sanding Stick - Same idea as the Dremel tool but with less power and more precision (depending on the Dremel bits you have. A sanding stick has a straight edge you can use for small fixes). For small areas, try a tiny sanding stick or wrap some sandpaper on a ruler or wood slice if in a pinch,

Sandpaper - If you want to fix a small mistake and don’t have a sanding stick, try folding up the sandpaper to create a sharp edge. Or wrap the paper around a block and use a corner to remove mistakes.

Tombow Eraser - A super handy eraser that is half eraser and half sandpaper. It has grit within it so it helps to take off any lines and overburn and the eraser in it does the rest. It works great on pencil but it won’t take off 100% of dark graphite (if you pressed really hard during your transfer). Use a tombow eraser first as it won’t scratch up your surface and then finish off with a super light sanding.

Keep Burning - Sometimes you just need to embrace the mistakes and work with them. Continue burning and adjust the original design to make your mistake disappear. Try to burn around the area instead of on top as burning the same spot will result in a deeper burn which may stand out and cannot be fixed.

How to get rid of transfer lines or pencil marks:

You’ve finished your wood slice art piece but can see remaining pencil lines from drawing your design, or even worse, transfer lines after using a no-heat transfer technique or the heat technique, you can see bits and pieces of your graphite lines.

There are a couple ways to get rid of these too!

1. Tombow sand eraser:

   Start here as the eraser gets the majority of the lines off or at least makes them lighter and less visible.

2. Give it a light sanding with sandpaper:

   Regular old sandpaper will work to get off graphite and pencil lines. Lightly sanding over your burn lines makes them sharper and cleaner, getting rid of overburn. This part sounds scary but it will really get everything off! Except what you’ve burned of course, UNLESS your lines and shading are not deep. If you have very light shading or lines, you may have to touch them up. I usually recommend getting the outline or majority of my design burned, take of the graphite lines with the Tombow eraser and a light sand, AND THEN fill in details and shading.

   After sanding, you may be getting dust in between your pyro lines that are tricky to get out. I use a sandpaper that has a sponge on the back and wipe it with that (dry of course). You can also use a toothbrush, air compressor (like the ones people use to clean their keyboards), or a microfibre cloth.

Some tips on avoiding the whole process of erasing leftover lines:

1. Firstly, use graphite paper or blue chaco paper. Carbon lines are much much harder to take off!

2. Use a light hand to transfer your design.

3. Transfer the minimal amount of lines (i.e. just the outline and the placement of a few details to get you going).

4. Draw your design directly on the wood, and lightly with a pencil or chalk (much easier to erase than any transfer paper).

5. Try burning free hand! I mark the general shape or outline with a couple dots or dashes using a pencil. That way there is much less to take off and I usually end up burning on top of those few lines. Tape also works well to make temporary borders.

Author: Basia Chmielowiec of fine line pyro and proud squad member of Wood Burn Corner!

5 Common Pyrography Myths

Megan of @happicamperkc is such a fabulous pyrographer and person. I had the good fortune to get to meet her in person, where we talked about pyrography and small business for hours!

Her pyrography is BOLD! Her color choices alone speak for themselves. She has learned a thing or two in her years as a wood burning artist, and she is sharing her knowledge with us.

Do yourself a huge favor and follow this wonderful human and artist. Let’s help support her so she can make her dream of becoming a full time artist a reality!

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Guest blog post by Megan of @happicamperkc

Find Megan on Facebook - Instagram - Etsy

SUPPORT HAPPI CAMPER ON PATREON “We do, and her posts are always filled with knowledge, love, happiness, and COLOR!”

5 Common Myths When it Comes To Wood Burning

The art of wood burning has changed a lot in the past few decades, and with this change, many misconceptions have come along. I want to help clear things up and tell you the most common myths about this hot-n-trendy medium:

MYTH #1 : All wood is equal in pyrography.

Nope. Like way nope. To me, the best wood types for burning are: Basswood, aspen, Baltic birch. I would 1000% avoid pine and plywood. Each kind burns differently. And it is a preference thing. It's just pine is really difficult with the soft/hardness and plywood straight up has dangerous fumes due to the glue they use when in manufacturing.

MYTH #2 : Watercolor will make your wood crack every time.

Nah, the trick is: Less water. More patience. Also the thinner your pieces, the more likely they are to crack. As long as you're using 1/2" or thicker you will be fine using watercolors on wood art.

MYTH #3 : I can make art like yours with my plug-n-play burner my grandma gave me.

I get this one a lot with peeps who see my art on social media, and then maybe come to my burning classes. Unfortunately, no this is NOT the case. I use a professional-grade burner that gets up to 1000 degrees hotter than your 1986 wood burner pen.

To get those hot, hot burn lines like I do I recommend getting a Razertip, Colwood or Optima burner tool.

That's not to say you can't do amazing art with a Walnut Hollow Creative burner. Just check out Hippie North.

MYTH #4 : Wood burning smoke is no more harmful than a campfire.

Listen. You only get 2 lungs. And you freakin' need them. When I started burning in 2012, I thought the smokiness was no worse than camping. But if you're like me and you wood burn WEEKLY, safety MUST come first.

Use a fan to pull smoke away. Wear a charcoal lined mask. Open windows. If you don't regret it now. You'll regret it later.

MYTH #5 : It's easy.

Ha! It's not. People go into wood burning thinking that it's like moving a brush across canvas or pen on paper. Pyrography is a whole 'nother beast and it will take time for you to get a feel for how you want to burn.

Common wood types you should NEVER burn on

Wood burning is a safe hobby when you follow the guidelines and safety precautions.

Too many times I see artists not using a mask and burning their art without any proper ventilation. Although you may not see any side effects from doing this right away, you should be warned that there may be long term effects that can be avoided!! (Among lung and breathing issues, I have heard of people loosing parts of their vision due to prolonged periods of smoke exposure without proper safety gear).

SMOKE IS SMOKE. PERIOD.

It is not good for you to be breathing the fumes in! Or allowing them to go into your eyes and the rest of the house where others are breathing it too.

Please, please, please keep yourself and those around you safe by following the safety precautions set by the wood burning tool manufacturer. Click here to see how you can protect yourself and grab your free safety guide to print and hang on your wall if this helps to remind you to wear a mask.

DID YOU KNOW…

There are many different surfaces, other than wood, that you can burn on. The most common surface for pyrography is wood. But did you know that the materials you are burning on emit different toxins depending on what they are made of. Some are more toxic than others. So for instance, burning on dry, unfinished wood can be safe (with the proper gear) but not all raw wood emits the same toxins. There are wood species that are very dangerous for your health, even if you use all the safety precautions.

RESEARCH YOUR MATERIALS TO UNDERSTAND WHAT TOXIC CHEMICALS MAY BE PRESENT AND WHETHER THOSE CHEMICALS ARE RELEASED WHEN HEAT IS APPLIED.

Common wood types you should never burn on:

• Driftwood: Burning salt-saturated driftwood is a bad idea as it can release toxic or harmful chemicals when burned, according to the EPA.

• Green wood: This type of wood isn’t a species, it is the state of the wood. meaning it’s not completely dry. Once a tree is cut down, it needs to be seasoned for 6 to 9 months to become completely dry. Burning on this will create a lot of smoke and will take much longer, the process will be even slower than regular pyrography.

• Wet, rotted, diseased, or moldy wood

• Plywood, particle board, chipboard, wood pallets or any wood with glue on or in it: Do not burn on anything man-made. This includes wood that has been stained, sealed or treated with any kind of glues or oils (even if they are natural oils). if you mix your media (like I do with water marbling) make sure to wood burn first and then add other mediums.

• Craft store wood: Many stores sell wood for crafting with but the majority of the time those wood slices are intended to be embellished with paint, chalk or other mediums and are not meant for pyrography!

• Wood with "poison" in the name: Burning poison ivy, poison sumac, poison oak, or pretty much anything else with the word "poison" in it’s name releases the irritant oil urushiol into the smoke. Breathing it in can cause lung irritation and severe allergic respiratory problems, according to the Centres for Disease Control and Prevention.

• Oleander shrubs: These thrive in frost-free climates and every part of it is toxic. Definitely don’t burn it in any way - don’t even use a branch to toast your marshmallow on.

• The yew tree (Taxus baccata) and a related species common to gardeners, Japanese yew (Taxus cuspidata) is known to be one of the most poisonous woody plants in the world, with all components of the tree, excepting the fleshy red part of the berry containing lethal amounts of taxine, a toxic alkaloid found in the yew.

• Mexican pepper: Also known as Brazilian pepper wood, it is similar to poison ivy, poison oak and poison sumac, the leaves and bark contain urushiol, a toxic oil that causes serious rashes and allergic reactions.

If you feel any dizziness or headaches coming on while burning, stop and assess your situation. Do some research. I like to use the wood-database.com for a quick look up and do a little more research if I don’t get enough information from there. If you are unsure, reach out to us and just ask.

Know what you are burning on before you burn and stay safe!

Check out our safety guide for overall health and safety suggestions!

And Check out Top Woods To Burn on or join The Burn Club Community for more Pyro Fun!

sources:

https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/

https://www.goodhousekeeping.com/home/a20705861/kinds-of-wood-not-to-burn/

https://wooddad.com/what-wood-is-toxic-to-burn/

https://homeguides.sfgate.com/burning-oleander-produce-poisonous-smoke-75289.html

https://www.epa.gov/burnwise/best-wood-burning-practices

https://extension.psu.edu/toxicity-of-yew-wood-and-roots

https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/2010-118/default.html

5 Easy DIY Wood Burned Project Ideas

Want to make your own personalized DIY gifts for a loved one?? Pyrography is such a versatile hobby, below are 5 very easy projects you can make yourself and personalize in any way!

New to wood burning?

Check out our blog post: Start Here if you are NEW to Wood Burning

Here you will learn all about the tools you need, wood you should be using, safety you should be following and tips and tricks to help you make your own DIY wood slice project ideas come to life!

1. Wood Burned Spoons

Practical, useful gifts are always a good choice! Choose wooden spoons, spatulas, or salad servers with a simple design, or customize it with their name or their favorite quote. You really can’t go wrong with this functional art piece. Remind your gift receiver to not wash wood in the dishwasher, or to leave it soaking in water. Oil it with a food-grade safe oil, and recommend that your recipient re-oil them as needed to keep them looking good! I recommend Howards Butcher Block Conditioner or Howards Cutting Board Oil.

2. Fridge Magnets

These can make such a cute gift. Create a set to give, and customize them for each person. I like to use mini birch slices, some E6000 glue (this stuff works!) and a strong magnet. You want your magnets that you give to be useful, so choosing a magnet that is strong enough is key! I like this magnet from Amazon. I think the size is great and they are super strong. I make these magnets in bulk so I have them on hand to customize when I need to put together a gift. Give it a try!

3. Cutting Board

Another practical, useful and functional art gift! Wood burning is so versatile, and I love how everything can be customized. Turn a favorite photo of them into functional art. Add their name to a cutting board, or their favorite food/plant/flower/animal/etc to a serving board. Make it special to them. Remind them to hand wash only and to use a food-grade safe cutting board oil and reapply as necessary. I like these two board options. A classic board and a long rectangle.

4. Name Sign or Welcome Sign

New house? New marriage? New Baby? Create a family name sign! These are always well received. I like to keep my design simple so it can fit with other people’s decor. You could also add color, their house, or a special date if you have that information. Customize it to them! I love using a Basswood Country Round for a rustic feel, and a Basswood Canvas for a modern look.

5. Wood Burned Clock

This is such a gorgeous, unique and thoughtful gift. It adds a warmth to any space, and is not only beautiful, but quite helpful. To create this piece I used a drill, Clock Parts from Walnut Hollow and a slice of Basswood. I sized and printed the numbers in the font of my choosing to fit the canvas. I then transferred the design using graphite paper and an embossing tool, and then burned the numbers using a Versatool burner. Then I used the drill to poke a hole in the center and added the clock parts. I used a Basswood Country Round, but you could also use a Circular Wood Canvas. I did not put a finish my clock, because I want to be able to darken it over time, as need be.

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Click here to learn how to transfer your child’s artwork onto wood and wood burn it for a lasting and personalized gift!

For more gift ideas and things to make next with your wood burning tool, check out this blog post with over 150 ideas of what to burn next!

And if you are just getting started in your pyrography journey, head here.

You can also find more project ideas and a full how-to in The Wood Burn Book or get yourself one of the Wood Burn Community Book of Template books full of traceable templates you can practice pyrography with!

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Sanding Your Wood: Before and After You Burn + Prepping Wood Surfaces for Pyrography

Sanding, like it or hate it, is a part of being a wood burning artist. Sanding your wood before and after you burn can make your entire piece and your burn lines crisper.

A smooth wood surface will help you create a smoother, better burn. It is worth the time it takes to make it smooth, trust us.

There are some things you can do to make the job a little easier on yourself. See the steps below to getting the perfect surface to burn on:

Prepare the workspace

Place the wood slice on a flat and stable surface that won't move during sanding. You may want to clamp it down to keep it steady.

SAFETY FIRST!

Make sure you are in a well ventilated space, have an air purifier if sharing the space and you are wearing proper safety equipment. Something to protect your eyes and your lungs. Do it every time. The last thing you want is for your art to cause you harm. Protect yourself!

My favourite mask to use for everything I do with pyrography is RZ Mask. The M model is my favourite but they have so many to choose from and in so many different colors... They all have activated carbon filters which are replaceable and the mesh mask shell and valves are washable and reusable. They are comfortable, breathable and are 99% efficient against particulates down to 0.1 microns in size.

Choose the right sandpaper

The type of sandpaper you use will depend on how rough the surface of the wood slice is. Start with a coarse grit sandpaper (60-80 grit) and gradually move to a finer grit (120-150 grit) for a smoother finish.

Understanding Grit:

In the US grit is determined based on a scale. When shopping for sandpaper, you’ll see numbers such as 80-grit, 100-grit, or 200-grit. Keep in mind:

• The higher the number, the smaller the grains and the finer the sandpaper grit.

• The lower numbers indicate larger grains and overall coarser sandpaper

Generally you want to start out with a lower grit (coarser sandpaper). This helps to get rid of any larger scuffs, scratch marks, bumps and/or irregularities. Then you will want to increase the grit and finish off with a finer, more gentle sandpaper to get that ultra smooth finish.

Always sand with the grain of the wood, not against

Sand your pieces before you do any wood burning to ensure clean and crisp lines. A smooth surface will be much easier to burn on, and will create a better result.

Begin sanding the wood slice using the coarse grit sandpaper. Work in the direction of the grain and use a back-and-forth motion. Sand any rough spots until they are smooth.

Once you've sanded the rough spots with the coarse sandpaper, switch to a finer grit sandpaper. Continue sanding until the surface is smooth and free of any scratches.

Finish with the finest grit for the ultimate smoothness

For an extra-smooth finish, use the finest grit sandpaper (220 grit) to sand the surface once more at the end. This will remove any remaining scratches and leave the surface with a smooth texture.

Clean the surface

Wipe off any dust and debris from the wood slice with a clean cloth. You can also use an air compressor to get rid of any dust. Be careful to not get too close to the bark on a live edge wood slice. The strong air may remove delicate bark pieces and can come off. If you don’t have access to an air compressor, use a brush to sweep of the dust or, better yet, use a bristle attachment on a vacuum to safely capture the dust.

Sanding Tools

Please note these are Amazon Affiliate links. We only share items that we have used and love!

In the video below, I used:

RZ Mask: M (RZ Mask rocks!! My first mask was the M2 but the M has the ear straps which fit me better. They have loads of styles and sizes to choose from!!)

Dewalt Oribit Sander

Course Sandpaper: 80-100 grit

Fine Grit Sandpaper: 240 grit

Sanding after you wood burn a piece

Sanding a piece after you burn removes any tracing lines as well as “overburn.” (Overburn, as you can see here on the left) is when you have a browning coloration right next to your burn line on the surface). Sanding your piece after you burn it gives your piece crisper and finer lines.

Use a 200-grit or 220-grit sandpaper (the finer the better) and remember to be super gentle when sanding at this stage, especially if you don’t burn very deep.

If you have any shading or surface burn lines, they may come off, so really; go light and slow here.

Watch how I sand my wood slices before I burn on them!

more Fun tips and tricks

Sanding sponge versus sanding block:

Since sponges form to your hand, a block sand paper will allow you to put in less effort and ensures you are sanding flat and not creating any divots. Try wrapping a sandpaper sheet to a scrap wood if you don’t have a pre-made sanding block (use a tube or pvc pipe instead of a block for contoured wood pieces)

Sanding power tools:

These come in handy! Especially if you prefer to sand your pieces in “batch work” style, meaning you sand a whole bunch all at once. I recommend this, because it is a time saver. You only have to get dirty once, you only have to pull out the tools once, and clean up the mess once. Then you have a stack of ready to go canvases. It’s awesome.

WANT TO LEARN MORE ABOUT WOOD BURNING AND IMPROVE PYROGRAPHY SKILLS?

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How To Transfer Designs To Wood Without Using Heat

If you want to learn all the ways we transfer designs to wood, check out The Wood Burn Book by Rachel Strauss.

To get started with a design, grab one of our free templates, check out our template books or visit the templates store!

top 3 ways to easily transfer an image onto wood

1.GRAPHITE

• Graphite Paper $8 (100 sheets)

• Tombow Pencils $9 (6 pack)/Ticonderoga Pencils $5 (12 pack)/Embossing tool $8 (5 pack)

Note: you may come across carbon paper which looks the same and transfers the same. The biggest difference is that carbon is much harder to get off of the wood after the transfer so stick to graphite when you can!

PRO’s Only need graphite paper, design, tape and a pencil. Low cost, easy to use and does a great job transferring even detailed designs. Graphite paper can be reused numerous times, and your designs can be used again as well.

CON’s: Graphite doesn’t remove easily on wood, so you have to be really careful with the transferring (don’t press too hard). Accidental smudges can happen easily. Store graphite separately from wood to make sure they don’t rub together. If you do get any smudges or leftover graphite, there is a chance you can save it by giving it a gentle sand with a 180 to 220 grit sandpaper (a finer grit sandpaper). Here are some other ways to remove leftover lines from transferring or drawing your design.

How to transfer using graphite:

1. After you’ve chosen a design and sized it to your sanded down wood slice; line it up and secure it using tape.

2. Slide the graphite paper, dark side facing the wood, underneath the design.

3. Take your pencil/pen/embossing tool and follow your design lines using light-medium pressure. Ensure you follow the design lines as closely as possible.

4. Check on the progress of your design, but do not move around or remove the design until you check to make sure it has completely transferred.

This video below features a Woodland Snail Template by Maria Johnson maple & Fern Co. from The Community Book of Templates, Volume 2. I used transfer paper to omit having to cut up the book or print anything and just traced it right off of the page!

You can also get White Graphite

• White Graphite $10

• Tombow Pencils $9 (6 pack)/Ticonderoga Pencils $5 (12 pack)/Embossing tool $8 (5 pack)

Use the same technique as graphite paper but on a dark background, like walnut wood. The darker the background, the better this method shows up!

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2. BLUE CHACO PAPER

• Blue Chaco $15

• optional: Embossing tool $8 (5 pack)

PRO’s: Transfers easily like graphite paper, easily removes with damp cloth. Doesn’t stain/scar wood. Can be removed entirely.

CON’s: Be careful not to use too much water. It rubs off easily, so it is not great for long-term use. Also, since it blue in colour, it’s little harder to see on the wood if your wood is light.

This is a special paper with blue chalk on it. It transfers much like graphite paper, but erases with just a damp cloth.

How to transfer using ChACO paper:

1. Tape your design onto your wood, face up.

2. Slide the blue Chaco paper underneath with the blue side facing the wood.

3. Follow your design lines using an embossing tool or a ballpoint pen.

4. Check on progress of transfer, and remove design and chaco paper when everything has transferred Can be used for woodburning.

5. After wood burning is complete, you can remove the excess chaco markings with a damp cloth.

You can also use White Chaco Paper

• White Chaco $6 (1 sheet)

• optional: Embossing tool $8 (5 pack)

Works the same as blue chaco paper but is great for an already darkened background, the darker the better. Can be removed with a damp cloth, sand eraser or mars plastic eraser.

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3. Pencil on Paper

We like to use the Tombow Pencils $9 (6 pack) or Ticonderoga Pencils $5 (12 pack) but any pencil will do; the softer the lead, the better (ie. 10B is better to use versus a 2B or any H’s)

PRO’s: It doesn’t require any fancy tools. It works well, and makes for a nice transfer. Works well for fonts and most designs.

CON’s: Time consuming, messy and can have some missing spots. Not great for really fine detailed pieces.

1. Take your design and flip it over

2. Blacken/shade the entire backside of your design with an extra-soft pencil, or any line that you will want transferred. Go past the lines on either side, to give yourself some wiggle room when you do the actual transfer.

3. Flip it back over, with the blackened side down, and carefully place and secure it to the wood slice. You don’t want to rub or move it around too much, because it will rub onto the wood.

4. Take your pen/pencil/embossing tool and go over the design with a light to medium pressure. Follow your lines as closely as possible. The more precise your transfer, the better your design will look.

5. Ensure you have completed the transfer before removing the design.

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Click Here to see the instructions on how to transfer your image using heat.

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For more pyrography tips and tricks and to learn wood burning at your own pace from your home consider The Complete Wood Burning Toolkit.

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Favorite Odd Tools for Woodburning

These are some of our favourite tools to have nearby when creating pyrography projects of any kind. These are tools that are not necessarily essential, but sure feel essential to me. They make the task at hand easier, faster or simply just more convenient.

Tombow Sand Eraser

This is THE BEST tool that I have found to get rid of unwanted graphite markings. I first discovered this when I saw an ink artist using the eraser, and saw that it was called a “sand eraser,” so I wondered if it would work on wood, and it did! Now I see this eraser being using widely amongst pyros, and it makes me so happy I decided to experiment that day.

Watercolor Water Pens

This saves so much time with watercolor/gouache/acrylic. Instead of having to dip back in water, the water is held in the pen. It’s brilliant!!! It’s easy to adjust the amount of water too which is key to painting on wood. Too much water can split it… Always remember to burn first, and then add your color. CLICK HERE for more water-colour on wood tips.

Brass Brush

This is my go-to, must-have tool next to me while I burn. I use it to quickly and gently scrape away any char on my nib so I can keep a nice smooth burn. Some artists may think this is too harsh for their nibs, but I have had zero issues with scratching/damaging nibs with this technique. Look for something with softer bristles. Giving it a quick scrape keeps my lines clean and smooth. Highly recommend. CLICK HERE to learn more about maintaining and cleaning your tools.

Blue Chaco Paper

This stuff is a great alternative to graphite paper, and only requires a little damp cloth to wipe away. It’s a bit pricey, but worth it, and can be used over and over again just like graphite paper. You transfer it in the exact same way you do for a transfer or graphite paper, but any unwanted lines can be removed so much easier. (Check out How To Transfer Designs To Wood Without Using Heat).

Metal Ruler

Metal is key here, because you can use it to burn straight lines by cozying your burner right up next to the edge of the ruler. If you were to use plastic, you’d melt it, so be sure it is a metal ruler. It works really well to create nice straight lines, just be sure to hold it firmly in place and keep your fingers out of the way.

Pen Razor Blade

This is like having a magic eraser. Any over burned areas, or little mistakes you can gently chip them away with a razor blade and no one will ever know. Be careful though. Once. you chip it away, you won’t have a flat texture to burn on and the spot may be noticeable, especially if you go deep. Try gently scraping it first. On the other hand, getting the inverted texture is something you are looking for: it is great for creating fine hairs in detailed photorealistic pieces after you’ve burned it.

Needle Nose Pliers

This is so I can carefully change nibs while they are still warm. If you are impatient, like me, I suggest having a pair of these at the ready when you are burning. Also have a ceramic dish or glass jar/bowl to catch those hot nibs to go along with it. This is obviously not necessary, because you can always wait for your burner to cool before changing nibs by hand.

ceramic ring dish

This is where I ditch my hot nibs/tips when changing them out mid-burn. A glass or metal dish would work as well.

Sand Paper Pens or Sanding Sticks

These sand paper pens/sticks are also great for those finer details, and little mistakes. No matter how good of a job I did on the burn, I can always tidy it up a bit with one of these bad boys. It only takes a little bit of time, but they clean up any piece to give it that polished look.

Wooden ball stylus dotting tool

I use this for transferring designs to wood (Check out How To Transfer Designs To Wood Without Using Heat). It allows me to use the same design over and over again.

Gooseneck Camera Holder

This is so I can film and photograph while I burn hands-free. It is much safer and creates better quality content. I have one gooseneck holder that is attached to my wall so it hangs right over my work. If you are a pyrographer that utilizes social media for marketing, then I can not recommend this enough. Hit that record button each time you sit down, and you will find yourself with so much great content that you can use.

What are your favorite odd tools for wood burning?

Check out this blog post for learning how to take care of all your wood burning tools.

Want to learn more about Wood Burning and improve pyrography Skills?

Learn at your own pace from your home with The Complete Wood Burning Toolkit.

Tool Care for your Woodburning Tool

Tool care is important for getting a smooth burn, and for keeping your tool working for a long time.

Here are some general wood burning tool tricks for keeping your pyrography tool in tip-top shape. You will also want to keep your nibs clean. These require the most attention.

For general wood burner (machine)care:

Make sure your burner has good air flow.

Make sure it is free of dust and dirt.

When traveling, take care to pack your burner well. Store your pens so that the nibs and connection points don’t get damaged. Try not to bend any of the cords and wires with force or pressure or excessively.

I travel quite often with my burner and found that putting it in a hard shell duffel style case helps keep in tact and secure. Here I am using a vintage sewing case. It’s hard outer layer allows everything inside to keep from squishing!

Be sure to give your burner breaks, especially if you are burning on high temperatures. This will help keep your burner and pens happy for a long time.

Now, let’s talk nib care:

You will want to have a way to clean your tools while they are hot, and a deeper clean while they are cool.

My favorite cleaning tool while my burner is hot is a brass brush. I give my burner a gentle little scritch-scrath whenever my lines are looking a little '“jumpy.” This cleans up my burn by getting rid of the char build-up.

Every once in a while I also like to give my tools a deeper clean while they are cool. To do this, I use a leather strop with white compound. You rub the white compound onto the rough side of the leather, and then rub your nib until it’s nice and clean. This is the best way that I have found to clean nibs.

Here are some Amazon Affiliate links to the tools I and other pyrographers use to clean their wood burning tools.

These are other ways that you can clean them: tea strainer, parrafin wax, sand paper, and damp high-heat sponge.

These all work fairly well, but are not my personal favorites.

Tea Strainer: Many pyrographers use this, but I feel it is a little too rough on my tools. To use this method, take a simple metal tea strainer and give your nib a little scrape to brush off any excess char that might be getting in the way of a clean burn.

Parrafin Wax: This is a fairly new method that I learned about from Pat, the creator of the Optima 1 pyrography machine. You simply touch your nib to the wax while it is hot. The wax will burn right off and rid your nib of that extra buildup on the nib. It works just fine, but I didn’t enjoy the smoke it gave off. It is the exact same as a candle burning, though.

Sand Paper: I don’t recommend this for any wire tip burners. It is too rough on their delicate wires. Even with the bulk of a solid-nibbed burner, you will want to be gentle and go easy on the sanding. It will wear your nibs down over time, and this is why many pyrographers will even cringe at the idea of mentioning this option. This is a “use the tools you have on hand” situation. Since you already have sand paper, using it to carefully, and gently scrape off excess char buildup on your solid-nibbed burners just makes sense.

Damp High Heat Sponge: This is was soldering iron users use, and it works pretty well to get big chunks of char off. It won’t clean your nib’s surface completely, but it will keep your lines smooth. Does require minimal prep of dampening the sponge before you start burning, but is great because you can use it while it is hot. Be sure to use a high heat sponge for this.

In a pinch and with solid-nibbed burners, sand paper can work. I like a damp high-heat sponge as well. Not as big of a fan of the parrafin wax or the tea strainer, but I know other people in our community are. Do what works best for you!

WANT TO LEARN MORE ABOUT WOOD BURNING AND IMPROVE PYROGRAPHY SKILLS?

Learn at your own pace from your home with The Complete Wood Burning Toolkit.

Grow with the community: Join Burn Club+, a place where you can ask questions, and get the full answers, a place of fun and learning.

Check out our templates for unique and fun designs to practice your burning with!

Alternative Mediums to use with Pyrography

Adding mixed media elements to a wood burned piece is so much fun. The options are literally endless.

The image here is wood burned first, then holes were drilled, and then I used thread to create patterns that mimic the wood burned patterns! Imagine this with other rope materials (such as [amazon affiliate links]: iridescent thread or simple twine…)

Have fun with it and think outside the box!

One thing you want to keep in mind is that you should almost always do your pyrography first, then add your mixed media. It is not safe to burn on unnatural surfaces. Grab your Pyrography Safety Guide to stay safe while burning!

Here are a couple fun Mixed media on wood ideas to get your juices flowing.....

• Dried Flowers

• Artificial Flowers

• Watercolor (click for a blog post for tips on how to add watercolor to wood)

• Shelves

• Chalkboard paint

• Hooks

• Mirrors

• Stickers

• Photographs

• Lights

• Macrame

• Gemstones

• Numbers

Gold Leaf on Wood

Pencil Crayon on Wood

• Plants

• Embroidery

• Gold Leaf (like in the image above, this medium is thinner and gives a lot of texture)

• Gold foil (this adds a metallic touch but is a solid gold finish as it is thicker than gold foil)

• Glitter

• Sand

• Shells

• Beads

• Sparkly Glue

• Pencil Crayons

• Water Marbling (Click to be taken to finelinepyro.ca and learn more about this medium)

Ebru Painting/Water Marbling on Wood

The options are endless so have fun experimenting with all different mediums! If you’ve tried one that is not on this list, leave a comment below!

Get more Inspiration for mixed media on wood

Follow along a variety of projects using mixed media in The Wood Burn Book to see other projects you can make on wood.

For some inspiration, follow my Pinterest board to see all sorts of different mediums you can apply to wood!

How to have fun with loose watercolor and pyrography

Download your FREE poppy design printable template

What you need: (Amazon Affiliate Links)

• Small Basswood Country Round

• Burner (I used a Walnut Hollow Versa Tool and recommend it as a starting point. Get it and all your supplies for this project in The Wood Burn Box or check this blog post to learn which tool is best for you!)

• Graphite Paper

• Sand Paper

• Poppy Design from The Wood Burn Book

• Tape

• Pencil, Ball-point Pen or Embossing Tool

• Watercolor

• Paintbrush

• Finish

I show you the whole process of how to wood burn and add loose watercolor from start to finish here:

How to get your kids involved in pyrography

My kids are always so excited to see what I am making. They watch the process, they see the finished results, and they cheer me on, which is why getting them involved is so much fun. Collaborating with them to create a unique piece gives them such pride. You can use a design they have already drawn, or have them create something new.

I like to do the burning while they watch, and then have them finish it off with markers, colored pencils or watercolor.

This makes an amazing gift for a grandparent, spouse, or loved one. It is also a great class option if you teach, especially around Mothers/Father’s Day.

What you will need:

• Drawing your kids made!

• Wood

• Burner (I used a Walnut Hollow Versa Tool and recommend it as a starting point. Get it and all your supplies for this project in The Wood Burn Box or check this blog post to learn which tool is best for you!)

• Sand Paper

• Graphite Paper

• Tape

• Embossing Tool

• Tombow Sand Eraser

• Markers

• Safety Equipment (mask, fan, etc)

Watch the FREE video below or click here for written step-by-step instructions!

Make your own Pyrography Canvas Backpack

Canvas is another amazing non-wood surface to embellish with pyrography. You will find canvas material in many different forms and adding wood burned touches to any of these canvas materials will add that personalized touch that will step up your canvas game. It is a bit smelly to burn, and you will need to clean your wood burning tool often, but it will look cool and be totally worth it. Be sure to utilize your safety equipment. You and those around you won’t want to be inhaling the fumes from burning on canvas, so be sure to work in a well-ventilated space and have fun with it!

Materials

• Canvas backback

• Water-soluble fabric pen

• Damp sponge

• Safety Equipment

• Wood Burning Tool, Spade and Flow Nibs or Ball-Point

Step 1: Choose your canvas backpack. Wash and dry before getting started.

Step 2: Lay your backpack flat on your table.

Step 3: With your water soluble pen, draw lines of varying lengths and arches from the bottom of the pack going up. These can be close together or spread apart, depending on how you envision the end result.

Step 4: Add lines of varying lengths to the right and left sides on these initial lines. Mix up the spacing between the lines to add interest.

Step 5: Put on safety gear. Canvas can be quite smelly, you don’t want to be breathing the fumes. An outdoor environment with plenty of air flow would be best.

Step 6: Turn on your wood burning tool. The temperature will depend on how quickly you would like to burn. The lower the temperature, the more controlled the burn. Start lower and turn up the temperature as needed. Using a spade or writing nib, burn by tracing over all of your drawn lines with the wood burning tool.

Step 7: Once you’ve traced all the lines, turn off your burning tool and carefully switch to a flow nib, preferably a ball-point. Reheat the burner and start adding the dots to the ends of your lines. To make a dot, simply hold the burner in place briefly. Be careful not to hold it too long, or you can burn a hole in your pack. Add burned dot ends until all lines are topped off with them.

Step 8: Rinse off your burned backpack or use a sponge and some water to carefully remove all water-soluble pen lines. Set out to dry.

Step 9: Wear your bag proudly, and enjoy the compliments.

SHOW OFF YOUR WORK!

Be sure to share your finished pieces on instagram using #thewoodburnbook

More projects in the book!

This essential guide opens with a brief background to the art of wood burning, a list of tools and how to use them, basic techniques that can be used over and over again, and even what to burn (projects, designs and inspiration) and how to be safe doing it.

Learn More

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