Make Your Own Poppy Wall Art

Watercolor is one of my favorite mediums to add to wood. It is quite liberating to add watercolor in this unique and loose way. You can take any simple line drawing and quickly turn it into a beautiful piece of art that will add vibrancy and warmth to any space. You can create a dramatic and playful effect by adding these fun and perfectly imperfect splashes of watercolor. Those splashes of bright color change the whole look of the piece, and really bring it to life.

I chose the California poppy for this particular piece for its bright colors and because I am absolutely obsessed with them. They pop up everywhere, are super vibrant, and just make me happy.

Download your FREE poppy design printable template

Materials

• Wood Round

• Design

• Transfer Supplies (Embossing Tool and Graphite Paper)

• Safety Equipment

• Wood Burning Tool + Flow, Spade or Writing Nib (Here I used the Optima 1 by PJL Enterprises. If you are just starting I would recommend the Walnut Hollow Versa Tool as a starting point. Get it and all your supplies for this project in The Wood Burn Box or check this blog post to learn which tool is best for you!)

• Watercolors

• Plate or Palette

• Water Cup

• Paper Towels

• Paintbrushes or Watercolor Water Pens

• Sawtooth Picture Hanger

Step 1: Choose any simple line-drawn floral design. This can be a hand drawn doodle, a drawing from a photograph, or a design in this book. Then choose a wood slice to fit the design.

Step 2: Transfer the design to the wood. I am using graphite paper and a slice of basswood with a live edge. Make sure you have transferred the entire design before removing the design.

Step 3: Choose your nib and burn. For this particular piece I like to use a flow or writing nib. This gives me the freedom to burn smoothly in all directions, without catching an edge of the nib.

Step 4: Remove any remaining transfer lines after the design has been burned in its entirety.

Step 5: Pull out your watercolors, palette, water glass, paper towels, and paintbrushes.

Step 6: Color the flower fully, or at least the parts you want colored. Don’t use too much water or you may split your wood. It’s OK if you go over the lines on this particular piece - you actually should! A loose watercolor look is what we are going for. This technique gives the feeling that the flower is extending past the lines you have given it.

Step 7: Add the splashes of paint once you have completed the coloring of the flower. Practice on a scrap piece of paper or on the backside of your piece first. Dip into the same color, hold your brush close to the wood, pull back on the bristles and let them go. This will create a splashed look. You can go heavy on the splashes, or very subtle, it is entirely up to you.

Step 8: Wait for the piece to dry, then attach a sawtooth picture hanger to the back

Step 9: Complete your piece with a finish of your choosing. I prefer a spray finish over watercolors, so as to not unintentionally spread the paint on the wood.

Step 10: Hang it on your wall, or wrap it up and give it as a gift!

SHOW OFF YOUR WORK!

Be sure to share your finished piece on instagram using #thewoodburnbook

More projects in the book!

This essential guide opens with a brief background to the art of wood burning, a list of tools and how to use them, basic techniques that can be used over and over again, and even what to burn (projects, designs and inspiration) and how to be safe doing it.

Learn more

Make Mini Fridge Magnets

Gel pens are great for using on wood burned projects because they are easily accessible, not messy, come in so many colors, metallics and neons, and are easy to apply to small areas. These fun little gel pen magnets are just so perfect for the adorable designs by Jess from @jeshypark.

These magnets are both useful and whimsical, and who doesn’t love that?! They are super simple to make but will surely add character to any refrigerator.

Materials

• Tiny Wood Slices

• Transfer Supplies (Embossing Tool and Graphite Paper)

• Tape

• Larger piece of wood

• Safety Equipment

• Magnets

• E6000 Glue

• Cotton Swabs

• Wood Burning Tools + Flow, Spade or Writing Nib (Here I used a Razertip. If you are just starting I would recommend the Walnut Hollow Versa Tool as a starting point. Get it and all your supplies for this project in The Wood Burn Box or check this blog post to learn which tool is best for you!)

• Sand Paper and Sand Eraser

• Gel Pens

• Finish

Step 1. Choose your designs, size them, print them.

Step 2. Sand your tiny wood slices smooth. I am using mini birch slices. Basswood is also a popular wood choice.

Step 3. Cut and place the designs on the wood slices.

Step 4: Choose a transfer method. A variety of these are discussed in the book. I suggest a graphite, blue Chaco, or pencil on paper methods. Here I am using the pencil on paper method.

Step 5: Tape your tiny wood pieces to a larger wood slice from the backside.

Taping them down will hold them in place and allow you to easily turn them while you transfer and burn without worrying about getting burned. I learned this trick from @northstar_pyrogrpahy.

Step 6: Transfer the design. Remember, the more accurate the transfer, the cleaner the burn will be

Step 7: Warm up your burner with your nib of choice securely attached. 

* Be sure to TAKE YOUR HEALTH & SAFETY SERIOUSLY. Check out the Safety Blog outlining all the steps you can take to burn safely, download your FREE safety guide and always follow the guidelines listed by the manufacturer.

Test your temperature on the back of one of your wood slices or a scrap piece of the same type of wood before getting started.

Step 8: Follow your transfer lines. Go slowly and be careful. Keep your fingers out of the way.

Consider using a different wood slice or object of equal thickness as a working surface on which to rest your hand.

This will allow you to burn more carefully and precisely with a steadier hand, which is especially important when working on something small.

Step 9: Remove any remaining transfer markings.

Step 10: Embellish your tiny wood burned designs with gel pens. There is no wrong way to do it, and I encourage you to go for it! Use metallic, neon, or monochrome colors. Color the whole thing, or just add accents. It is completely up to you!

Step 11: Once you are happy with the look, add a finish to keep them looking great for a long time. Allow to fully dry.

Step 12: Pull out magnets, E6000 glue, and cotton swabs. Flip the tiny burned slices over so the backside is facing up.

Step 13: Get a good amount of E6000 glue on the cotton swab and rub it on one side of a magnet.

Quickly place and slightly squish the magnet onto the backside of the wood burned piece.

Check on them after a few minutes to re-center any of the magnets which may have shifted position. Allow the glue to dry overnight.

*Be sure to work in a well-ventilated space because the glue can be quite stinky, and follow the guidelines listed by the manufacturer

Step 14: Once dry, your adorable handmade magnets are ready for use!

Show off your work!

I cant wait to see how you take these designs and add your own twist! Be sure to share your finished pieces on instagram using #thewoodburnbook

More projects in the book!

This essential guide opens with a brief background to the art of wood burning, a list of tools and how to use them, basic techniques that can be used over and over again, and even what to burn (projects, designs and inspiration) and how to be safe doing it.

Learn more

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Lettering Tips and Tricks for Wood Burning

In the short video below these written instructions, I cover some quick tips and tricks to make for cleaner lines with lettering when it comes to wood burning on wood.

Please ensure you always follow the safety precautions outlined by the wood burning tool company and read our blog post for more tips and tricks on staying safe while burning (including a free downloadable version that can serve as a great reminder): Safety in Wood Burning

1. Start with a clean desk, and unfinished, dry, and sanded smooth wood. A smooth surface will make for a cleaner burn.

2. Make a clean transfer. I like to use the heat transfer technique for lettering, so that I have a perfect transfer. Be sure to flip your text or print in reverse first. If you are drawing directly on the surface, use a very light hand. Also check out how to transfer your image without using heat.

3. Make sure your nib is nice and clean, and scrape it off throughout the burning process. Test your temp before you start. Check out the blog post on tool care and maintenance to see how I keep my tools clean and ready to burn.

4. Start in the middle of the word. That way if you are burning a little hot, it won’t show as much as the beginning of the word.

5. Then start with your outlines. Get a clean outline of your words first, which then allows you to go back in and fill in without fear of going outside the lines or mistake.

6. Slow and steady, as usual. Pull don’t push. Let the burner glide on the surface. For more tips and tricks on burning, check out this blog post and scroll to the bottom to get some super helpful pieces of advice to help you burn smoother.

Looking for designs and templates to practice burning with?

Check out our Community Template Books

or The Templates Shop where you can find individual designs and royalty free template patterns too!

Are you new to wood burning and looking for a tool?

I recommend the Walnut Hollow Versa Tool as a starting point. Get it and all your supplies for this project in The Wood Burn Box or check this blog post to learn which tool is best for you!)

What lettering tips do you have? What have you found helpful? Please share in the comments.

Pyrography on Odd Objects

Will it burn? Pyrography is such a versatile art! You can burn on almost everything.

I have been working on a little passion project over on TikTok of experimenting with pyrography on all kinds of odd things. It has been so much fun.

I usually involve my kids in the process of filming, design, editing, etc… They have been having as much fun as I have been having at using my wood burning tool in new and weird ways.

So far, we have been burning on a lot of different food items, and it has been so interesting to see what burns well, and what does not. I have plans to try burning on so many different objects, so stay tuned for all the weird and the fun.

List of what I’ve burned on:

• a hundred dollar bill

• paper

• antler

• lime

• pasta

• mango

• tortilla

• radish

• canvas

• onion

• lasagna

• leather

• cantaloupe

• watermelon

• orange

• carrot

• toast

• potato

• egg

• apple

• pasta

• denim

For me, making a lasagna with Garfield’s image burned into it has been my favorite. I have also burned Shrek’s face into a tortilla, and burned on mango! Check it out.

I know I am not alone in my experiments. I have seen pyrographers burn on all sorts of odd objects. Who said the wood burning tool was just for wood, anyway?

What have you tried to burn on? What has been your favorite?

As always, safety is important. Protect yourself and those around you when experimenting, and use your best judgement when choosing things to burn. I do my experiments outdoors, with a mask and fan.

Check out this blog post on Common Wood Types to Avoid Burning on!

and Feel free to download our free guide to safety, here.

For more ideas on fun random things to burn on, follow my Pinterest board: Alternative Surfaces To Burn On.

WANT TO LEARN MORE ABOUT WOOD BURNING AND IMPROVE PYROGRAPHY SKILLS?

Learn everything you need to know at your own pace from your home with The Complete Wood Burning Toolkit.

Grow with the community: Join Burn Club+, a place where you can ask questions, and get the full answers, a place of fun and learning.

Check out my one-on-one creative business coaching to boost your business in the right direction.

Creative Woodburner - 4 original nibs and how to use them

This video goes over the 4 different nibs a.k.a. tips or points (Drawing Point, Rounded Shader, Universal, Shading Point, Ball Point) that come with the Creative Woodburner from Walnut Hollow, and how each can be used. I give examples of how the machine works and is set up, and how the different nibs can be used.

Make sure to check out how to use the 4 NEW nibs/points from Walnut Hollow

Get yours Here (use WBC15 at checkout for 15%off!)

• Creative Wood Burner

The Creative Woodburner features the art of WBC’s Rachel Strauss on its packaging and in the instruction manual/inspiration guide. It can be found in store at Joann, or online at Home Depot, Walnut Hollow, Amazon, and Joann. This burner is comfortable to hold, burns really well, and heats and cools quickly.

To learn about different wood burning machines and figure out which one is right for you, visit: What Wood Burning Tool is Right for Me?

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Start Here if you are NEW to Wood Burning

So you are new to pyrography. WELCOME!

We are so glad you are here. Wood burning is such a versatile, relaxing, useful and wonderful hobby, and we’re so excited for you to discover it all.

The first step to learning about challenges, events, community news and anything happening in the pyro world is to sign up for out Free Burn Club Newsletter.

Keep reading to learn about the basics to get you started. We wanted to put together a place where you can go to get all sorts of great information in one spot.

Safety:

PLEASE start with the Safety Guide. It’s a guide on how to practice safe habits when wood burning. Really, don’t skip this. It is important for yourself and those around you and there is a free printable you can refer too and it also acts as a good reminder!

Tools and Accessories:

The Wood Burn Box - A box with tools and accessories we recommend beginners to start with, all in one place! We’ve put the essential (and some odd but helpful) tools together with some wood slices and complete with instructions and everything else you need to easily start this relaxing hobby, right when you open the box!

If you want to customize the box, check out the DIY Wood Burning Kit. It is basically a list (with direct links) of everything in The Wood Burn Box but with options (i.e. variety of recommended tools, variety of wood companies and odd tools you can choose or skip if you already have them at home).

Research your own tools. Click here for a guide on What Woodburning Tool is Right for Me?

Our Classes:

Check the Online Classes page for video tutorials, recordings to masterclasses and some pretty cool. unique pyrography events, as well as mini freebie blog posts with project ideas and instructions on how to wood burn.

Prefer to learn at your own pace? Check out the online Wood Burning Toolkit. The Toolkit is self-guided and taught by us and other fantastic pyrographers in our community. It is a massive collection of pyro information in one spot. You can work at your own pace, on your own time, at your own speed, and in your own order. There are audio lessons (transcripts included), written lessons, video and picture tutorials, as well as PDF printables to go with the entire Toolkit. The intention is having everything all in ONE place where you can go to find tools, resources, and sound advice for all things wood burning.

For a quick start guide, check out 10 Steps for Wood Burning By Hand

Our Books:

The Wood Burn Book

The Wood Burn Book includes detailed instructions on how to wood burn, tools, tool care, wood types, wood prep, adding color, finishes, and is filled with fun projects.

get the book

Books with Patterns For Tracing

The Wood Burn Community Book of Templates is an intro to pyrography book with traceable templates created by our community for the community.

Check out the books

Templates Store

Individual Patterns

Unique patterns to practice with as well as Royalty Free designs!

shop for templates

Pieces of advice to help while burning:

• When in doubt, turn down your burner and go slower.

• Never leave a hot burner unattended. Always turn off and unplug.

• Pulling, not pushing, is generally easier. Either way, don’t press hard: let the heat do the work.

• Let the burner glide across the wood.

• Turn your wood as you burn to keep a good vantage point.

• Always use dried, sanded, unfinished wood. Check out Common wood types you should NEVER burn on.

• Any color or finishing gets added after you are completed burning.

• Check out these transfer techniques: Transfer an image onto wood using heat or without heat.

• Join the wood burning community and not only will you learn all about wood burning, you will also make some really amazing friends.

• Read the Burn Club emails and the blog!

• Ask for help. Don’t be afraid to ask for help.

We can’t wait to see what you make. Comment if you have any questions, need advice, want to give advice, or want to show off a finished piece! We are here for it all.

Happy Burning, friends.

Adding Watercolor to Wood

There are so many different ways to add color to wood, but watercolor is probably my favorite.

There are a couple things you are going to want to know before you start adding watercolour on wood.

It doesn’t act the same way that watercolor paper does. Where you place it, it will soak in and stick. You can’t blend as easily as you can on paper. Especially if you are adding wood to a dried piece of wood, that wood will soak it right up because it is very thirsty.

Be careful not to use too much water or you can split the wood. (Trust me, I have done this!) You will think you can create more blending by adding more water, which you can, but it can be at the coast of the entire piece.

I prefer to use water brush pens for my paintbrushes. These are paintbrushes that hold the water or water color in their handle, and you squeeze them to get water onto your brush. I love these, because I have more control over the amount of water I am using, and it saves me time from having to dip back into the water glass.

There are some preferred watercolor manufacturers that I love like Arteza and Windsor & Newton, but a cheap pallet of colors from your local craft store will do just fine. If you are looking for metallic pigments, I can not recommend Fine-Tec Paints enough.

In this quick 5 minute video I cover how to add watercolor to wood, and what to avoid. I talk about the tools and materials that I use, and some tips and tricks I have learned.

No matter how you choose to add color, please remember, color goes AFTER burning. Never woodburn over color! Never ever! You do not want to be breathing those fumes. Always wood burn first then add your mixed media.

Affiliate Links for the materials I used:

• Arteza Watercolor Water Pens

• Cheap Watercolors

• Winsor and Newton Watercolors

• Archival Ink Gel Pens

• Embossing Tool

• Walnut Hollow Birch Coaster

I cover 9 ways to add color to wood in my book, The Wood Burn Book.

You can also check out this blog post for a list of alternative mediums to use with pyrography.

How To Transfer Designs To Wood: Heat Method

This technique is one of our favorites for it’s speed and accuracy. It works great for lettered pieces, detailed pieces, anytime you need a really precise transfer, or for almost any design.

NOTE: This technique requires a laser printed design. If you are printing words or letters, you design must be printed in reverse.

What Tools Do I need?

The best tool would be a solid tip burner, like this Walnut Hollow Versa Tool above. This tool is great for covering big areas because of its durability, consistent heat distribution, and simplicity in handling. A wire tip burner will work just as well, but it will take a little longer.

The perfect nib for the job is the Transfer Nib or Transfer Point. This nib covers a large surface area making the transfer faster. Any shading point will do. Anything hot and flat - even an an iron will work.

Don’t have this tool and want to transfer your design in a pinch?? Check out 3 ways to transfer a design without using heat.

How to transfer your pattern:

1. Prepare your design

You will need your design printed in reverse as the transfer is going to be mirrored onto the surface. You must use a laser printer or photocopier. The toner will be transferred directly to the wood using heat. This is especially important with any text or lettering!

To get started with a design, grab one of our free templates, check out our template books or visit the templates store!

2. Prepare your SURFACE

Start with a sanded smooth, dry, clean, and unfinished wood surface. Click here to see how to prepare your surface for burning.

I like to cut quite close to the edges of the design itself so that the placement is easier to see. Leave some room for tape - you don’t want to be touching it with your hot tool.

Place your design on your wood facing down (make sure it is right where you want it) and tape down on one side (two or more if it's a large design.)

3. Transferring the design

You want your tool to be hot, but not hot enough to burn the paper. Make a little test on the corner because if you burn the paper too much, your transfer may not work. Apply a light pressure and keep moving your tool over the back of the design.

Make sure you transferred everything before you remove your design. I like to peak underneath to check I transferred the entire design, just be careful not to move the paper placement or the design may not line back up.

If it is not transferring, try pressing a little harder, and/or slowly increasing your heat.

Word of warning when using a regular iron:

I had a large project so I tried using an iron thinking it would save me time.

Well, my iron has a steam setting that automatically kicks in at a certain temperature. In order to make the transfer work, the heat has to be quite high and, of course, there should not be any steam or moisture coming out of the iron…

I tried to use the medium heat (right before the steam started coming out) and the design did transfer BUT I needed a lot more pressure than normal which wasn’t a sustainable option. I had to press quite hard for anything to happen. I switched back to the Versa Tool because it was easier on the wrists and had the heat I needed.

What if I make a mistake?

Sometimes when peaking under the paper to see if the design has transferred, the paper will shift. If you continue with the transferring process, the shift can cause the design to be out of place.

Sometimes you think you placed the design down correctly, but after the transfer, it’s not exactly where you want it to be…

You can simply sand off the transfer lines with regular sandpaper. Click here to learn more about that process.

How many times can I use the design??

You can use this method to transfer a design onto wood a couple times. Each time you transfer, the design will get lighter and lighter so it is best to get it right the first time!

Watch these free videos below for tips, tricks, and all the details you need to successfully transfer designs using this technique.

For more pyrography tips and tricks and to learn wood burning at your own pace from your home consider The Complete Wood Burning Toolkit.

160 Ideas of Things To Wood Burn Next

Creativity ruts are a very real thing. When the options are endless for things you can wood burn, choosing one can be difficult. I have found that if I give myself some sort of constraint, whether it be an object, a subject matter, or a word, that it tends to spark an idea much easier. This is a place I hope you visit when you need inspiration of what to burn next.

My suggestion for utilizing this list would be to close your eyes, twirl your finger around, point, and see where you land. You can choose to point again, or let your mind wander with how you could create that object with your unique wood burned touches. I think you will find inspiration quite quickly.

I also recommend looking at old #burntmonthchallenge prompts (#burntmarch, #burntfebruary), and #burntday prompts for inspiration. Check out this blog post to learn more about these challenges!

If you need patterns and designs to burn, visit the templates store full of individual patterns for sale, like the one on these wooden spoons or grab yourself one of the community template books.

160 Ideas of What to Wood Burn Next:

spoons + serving ware + cutting boards + plaques + baseball bats + hammer + key chain + leather jacket + notebooks + ring dish + growth blocks + baby blocks + growth wall charts + toys + wall art + food display + candle display + pet portraits + coasters + ornaments + trophies + tables + cake knife + violin + guitar + desk + chairs + salad bowl + candy dish + wooden cups + cell phone covers + earrings + necklaces + bracelets + hair clips + chopsticks + baby bowls + baby plates + candle holders + serving tray + dice tray + toy box + shelving unit + bed headboard + wooden watch + clock + rolling pin + wooden apple + trivets + wooden tongs + pen holder + business card holder + jewelry holder +  shirts + jackets + canvas bag + leather key chains + salt bowl + coffee scoop + doll house + cabinet + piggy bank + wooden airplane + hand held fan + countertop + wine rack + cheese plate + cheese knives + toilet seat + memory box + plates + vase + comb + brush  + wall sign + open/closed sign + drawer fronts + lazy susans + puzzles + matching games + bathroom signs + kids’ room signs + chess pieces + checkers + trinket tray + cane + walking stick + map + key hook + magnets + boomerang + coat hangers + watercolor paper + driftwood + tool handles + skateboard deck + napkin holders + stools + magic wands + brooms + cork + dried gourd + pumpkin + nesting dolls + shoehorn + wooden bookmark + fishing pole + jenga + belts + purse + shoes + toy train + tablet cover + light switch cover + outlet cover + coffee table + animal ID tag + door knobs + bird house + dog bowl holder + wooden eggs + essential oil diffuser + dog name sign + welcome sign + step stool + bone + antler + tooth + horn + tree bark + cotton + pencil + stylus + recipe box + hats + leather backpack + canvas tote + rings + napkin rings + table number displays + logo sign + displays for business + cups + cribbage board + wooden pipe + tie clip + cuff links + figurines + wooden peg doll + bed frame + sandwich boards + chalkboard + picture frame  + pool cue + alphabet blocks + leather bookmarks + catchall + paper cards

The options are endless, and oh-so fun to imagine.

Check out some of these fun projects:

DIY Wood Burned Plant Marker

Make Mini Fridge Magnets

Make your own Pyrography Canvas Backpack

Need more pyrography inspiration or project ideas?

Check out the Pinterest board: Ideas and Items to Burn On for everyday and unique items made from wood or burnable surfaces.

What Woodburning Tool is Right for Me?

Choosing a burner can be quite difficult. There are so many brands, so many options, so many nibs and it can all be a bit confusing. When you are looking into a wood burning tool you need to think about a couple things.

1. Price

2. Use

3. Style

Price - What will my money get me?

Wood burning tools can range in price from $15-$200+, and more money does not necessarily mean you will get a better burn.

I like to think that there is 4 different levels in price.

$15: These are value tools, that usually just have an on/off switch. Recommend only if you are doing one project. They will come with several nib options but take some time to heat up and are a bit bulky to hold. This one from Walnut Hollow has been tried, tested and true. Get 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15

If you can invest a little more money, especially if you want to continue pyrography, we recommend going up, at least one more level.

$30: These are usually your solid-nibbed wood burning tools with temperature control. They usually come with several interchangeable nibs, are portable, but take a little while to heat and cool. Still slightly bulky, but for learning, exploring and understanding the art of pyrography, this price range is what you should be looking for.

Be weary of anything around this price or cheaper, especially off of amazon…

We love the Walnut Hollow Versa tool. This was our first burner, and after trying many many others, this is still one we recommend for beginners and large projects the most! Click here to get yours and make sure to checkout with 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15

$80 to $120: These are considered professional level machines, or entry level wire nib burners. Most come with interchangeable nibs. They may be lower quality wire nibs, when they are interchangeable, that may need some gentle tweaking before use or with a limited number of nibs, but this option is good if you want to learn what nib you like best. The grip will be more pen-like, it will have decent temperature control, and it will heat and cool faster than the previous tools. They are lighter weight machines and are not meant for heavy use.

Again, we love Walnut Hollow. Click here to get yours and make sure to checkout with 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15

$120+: These are your professional machines. These are sturdy, heavy duty, professional equipment. A lot of the time you will need to buy the machine separate from the pens/nibs. Many of the nibs are hand formed. There are options for pen choices(fixed pen and interchangeable options) and tons of individual options for nib choices (flow, spade, writing, shading transfer hot stamps). Some companies will customize nibs, and some offer such a wide range you wont need customization. (looking at you Razertip). The grip of these machines will be pen-like, it will have excellent temperature control(in some cases precise to the last degree), it will heat and cool in seconds, and in general these machines will reach much higher temperatures. Some great companies, our top three, include Razertip, Tekchic, PJL Enterprises.

Razertip even has a little starter pack with 6 nib options, the tools you need to change them up and keep them clean, plus. quick start book to her you started. Click here to see it!

Use - How will I use my wood burning tool?

ONE TIME USE - If you are planning on using a wood burning tool for just one project, then go ahead and get yourself a single temperature, solid-nibbed value wood burning tool. A tool like the Walnut Hollow Value Tool is around $15 (Get 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15). It comes with several nib options and you will be able to complete your project.

HOBBIEST and PROFESSIONALS - If you plan on doing more than one project, or very large projects, then we highly recommend that you get yourself a solid-nibbed, temperature-controlled woodburning tool. The Walnut Hollow Versatool is our favorite. This tool is so versatile, inexpensive (around $30 - get 15% off your order using the coupon code: WBC15), comes with a bunch of useful nibs, and works like a dream. This could easily be the only tool you buy. The level of detail that you can achieve with this one tool is astounding. Just go look at the #versatool to see what I mean. There are many professional wood burning artists who only use this tool.

PROFESSIONALS - If you are burning more than a couple times a week, then you should invest or start saving up to invest in a proper professional machine. These machines will decrease your time wasted waiting for you tools to heat/cool, will allow you to have a more ergonomic grip while working, they will allow for quicker nib changes, and will just speed up your whole process. They are worth the investment. Some great companies include Razertip, Tekchic, PJL Enterprises.

STATIONARY OR MOBILE - Will you have a dedicated wood burning station, or will you be on the move? This is something to consider when choosing the right burner for you. Some do not pack or travel well, while others are made to be portable.

Style - Solid vs Wire Nibs

SOLID: A Solid-nibbed or solid-tipped burner has a long heated shaft, with nibs that screw directly into the shaft. Your hand placement is further away from the surface being burned, and is generally a thick grip that will take some getting used to. They can come in temperature-controlled and single temperature varieties. These range from $15-$30.

Now, a solid-nibbed burner, like the WH Versatool does have its drawbacks. It takes a little while to heat up and cool down, the grip is thick and requires your hand to be far away from the surface you are burning (can take some getting used to), and the docking station is not very solid. But… this compact machine can burn! It’s great for covering large areas too as a solid nib burner will retain its heat better than a wire burner. We recommend this tool, or something similar be in every wood burning artists tool bag.

There is also an amazing nib called the Transfer Nib. It is amazing for transferring images to wood precisely and quickly. Check out this blog post on Using Heat To Transfer Images Onto Wood.

WIRE: A wire nib burner, or often called a professional burner, generally has a more pen-like appearance with a wire at the end that heats up. Your hand placement is much closer to the surface burning. The machine heats and cools quickly. These usually have a solid docking station, great temperature control, and a wide range of nib options.

The different nibs can be changed in a variety of ways for these wire nib burners.

1. WHOLE PEN/FIXED NIB - Some people prefer to have the entire pen switch out. It does decrease the chances of having connection issues, because changing nibs is so easy. These pens with a fixed nib usually just plug in quite quickly and easily. This is a more expensive option than the interchangeable nib, but more convenient and they tend to last longer than the interchangeable nib pens.

2. INTERCHANGEABLE NIB - This can be done in a couple ways. Sometimes the wire nib is in its own housing, and the housing switches out. Other times, you will fine that you are unscrewing the actual wire, and replacing it with a different wire. The ones in their own housing can be changed quicker and easier with less issue. I have found that when you are changing out just the wire, you need to be careful to make sure that all the connections are solid or your burner wont heat properly. Always test your temperature after switching out nibs.

Choose your Burner

Now that you know the different options, and what you should consider, it’s time to choose a burner. Here are some burners that we have personally held in our hands:

Here are some websites and Amazon Affiliate Links to the companies I trust: (Wood Burn Corner receives a small portion if you purchase through these links, or look below to visit the individual website’s of each manufacturer.)

Walnut Hollow:

Click here to visit Walnut Hollow’s site and below are our two favourite Walnut Hollow tools:

The Walnut Hollow Versatool

and The Creative Wood Burner.

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Tekchic:

Check out Tekchic - this machine is powerful, compact and has a decent grip on the pen.

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TruArt:

This machine is also really reliable and gets nice and hot. A bit thicker on the hand grip but works well.

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PJL Enterprises - Optima 1:

Visit PJL Enterprises to see their collection of tools. These pens are more pen-like, machine gets hot and the switches are very satisfying.

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Razertip:

Take a look at the Razertip’s options and their wide selection. They have new digital burners with a bit of a higher heat, but even their older models are one of our favourites.

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Want to learn more about Wood Burning and improve pyrography Skills?

If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to reach out to us!

Come join our community of pyrographers in Burn Club where we share tips, tricks, pyro resources, and free templates and coupon codes for pyro materials and accessories.

Or you can learn on your own at your own pace from home with The Complete Wood Burning Toolkit.

Also check out these other informative blog posts:

Pricing your Art

160 Ideas of What to Wood Burn Next

Start Here if you are NEW to Wood Burning

10 Steps for Wood Burning By Hand

Wood burning is such a versatile craft. Once you know the basics of pyrography, you can add wood burned embellishments to so many things. The options are endless.

You can make wall art, a personalized sign, a baby gift, a wedding present, a housewarming gift, and functional art… For some inspiration on what to burn next, check out this blog post: 160 Ideas of Things To Wood Burn Next

This is your quick-start 10 step guide to get you wood burning!

You will only need safety gear, a piece of wood, and a wood burning tool.

To get started with these, check out:

• The safety guide

• Top 9 wood surfaces

• How to choose a pyro tool

Oh and you will also need an idea of WHAT you want to burn! If you are not free hand burning, draw your design on with a pencil and burn over your lines with the hot tool.

If you want to transfer a design you will need a couple more things: the design, tape, graphite paper, a pen or embossing tool, and an eraser (preferably a sand eraser).

With these basic tools you can wood burn almost anything.

Designs and Templates:

If you want a design to practice with, check out our freebies page, grab a one of our Community Template Books or visit the templates store full of individual patterns for sale.

Want to watch some classes on pyrography instead? There are some you can purchase, some where you can learn from experts in the community burn live, some tutorials for free and private classes too!

10 Steps for Wood Burning By Hand

For a more detailed list of tools you will need, check out our DIY Wood Burning Kit or learn more about What Wood Burning Tool is Right for Me.

1. Choose your wood and the design you would like to burn on it. Ensure the wood is dried, unfinished, and sanded smooth before you begin. Know your woods. Basswood, poplar, or birch are a great place to start. Click here to see the BEST WOOD FOR PYROGAPHY.

2. Work in a well-ventilated, clean, and flat workspace. Be sure to follow all safety precautions (check out our free safety guide) for quick and easy access when you burn). Always wear a mask and turn off and unplug your burner when not in use.

3. Size, cut, carefully position, and tape your design (download a free poppy design here) of choice to the wood.

4. Slide the graphite paper under the design with the darker side touching the wood.

5. Carefully trace the lines on the artwork, using your embossing tool or ballpoint pen with light-medium pressure.

6. Peek under the graphite and design to ensure all the artwork has been transferred before you remove them.

7. Choose your burner nib, screw it on, and heat up your wood burning tool. Once warm you are ready to burn!

8. Test your temperature on scrap wood, or the backside of your piece before you start. Go slow!

9. Pull don’t push. Let the burner do the work for you. Apply light, even pressure. Start with a lower temperature, because you can always add heat and always add more burn. Just glide. Really, go slow!

10. Once wood burning is complete, use a sand eraser to remove any graphite lines still showing. Check out: How to get rid of mistakes and graphite/pencil lines.

Add color or a finish, if you so please, then post a photo and tag @woodburncorner in it! We want to see what you create!

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WANT TO LEARN MORE ABOUT WOOD BURNING AND IMPROVE PYROGRAPHY SKILLS?

Learn at your own pace from your home with The Complete Wood Burning Toolkit.

or join The Burn Club below.

Safety in Wood Burning

Pyrography is a safe hobby if you follow the safety guidelines and protect yourself. Please read thoroughly!

Take your health & safety seriously.

Your Set Up:

·      Do not leave a hot tool unattended; always turn off AND unplug the wood-burning tool before leaving the room.

Be mindful of turning it off, even if you only need to put it down for a moment to grab something. Trust me, it happens really fast and because the tool it so pen-like, you can forget really quickly how incredibly hot it gets!

·      Work on a clean, hard surface: The cords can move things, turning your wood can knock things over… Make sure your area is cleared off, clean, and solid. You really don’t want to me catching something that is falling, mid burn with a hot tool in your hand!

·      Work in a well-ventilated area; fans or fume extractors are always a good idea! (Position the fan right next to your work, facing away from you to pull smoke away from your face.) I also turn an air purifier on near my workspace. MORE ON THIS IN THE SMOKE SECTION BELOW!

· Pull your hair up, if you have long hair. Any loose clothing or fabrics around you should be tucked away as well. Sparks can fly!

·      Use a set of pliers and a ceramic dish for hot tips. This will allow you to safely switch, remove, and temporarily discard hot tips.

·      Make sure you have a solid docking station to put the burner down on, ensuring it doesn’t move around; tape it to the desk if necessary.

·      Teach children about safety. Kids are curious so make sure they know they can seriously hurt themselves when touching any metal parts. When your wood burning tool is in use; never leave children unattended around your work station. Kids love to press buttons (animals can also step on buttons and switches)!! Unplug your machine from the outlet if you’re not burning.

Your Wood Choice:

·      Make sure the wood you choose is dried, sanded smooth, and not chemically treated (no stains or other finishes). This includes your own finishes like watercolours, paints, gold leafing etc. Always do your burning first and then add in your colors and finishes. Check out the blog post about which woods to avoid burning on.

·      Check wood toxicity of the wood you will be using prior to burning a new piece. I like wood-database.com. Also, never ever burn on something that has a finish on it (any coatings, paint or even stain…). Always add your mixed media after you burn and if you missed it above, make sure to check out the blog post about which woods to avoid burning on.

·      So which woods can you use? Check out the blog post about the Best Wood for Pyrography.

The Smoke:

·      Always wear a mask with a rating of P-95 or preferably higher. There are many different options; do some research and make sure the rating is high enough for smoke. Look for masks with carbon filters and don’t cheap out on this one!!

Which one do we love? RZMask is a great company for many reasons. Thier masks are soft and super comfortable. They are reusable (change out the filter and wash the shell - this will save money and the environment)! Plus, they’ve got lots of styles to choose from.

I personally like the M2 below with the thick strap because I always wear my hair in a high bun. RZMask has a variety of strap options for different sized heads, hairstyles and shapes…

·      As mentioned in the set up section above, ventilation is crucial for pyrography. Even though you have a mask on, the smoke is still lingering in the room you are burning… A fan pulls away smoke which is great, but to protect the lungs of those around you, you have a couple options. You can choose a room air purifier (again, make sure it has a carbon filter!). I love the Wine brand - it is quiet and removes all the smelly stuff from the air!

If you want something smaller, or you are on the go, we suggest the Razertip Razaire Mini - Smoke Extractor:

Or the Funwill Smoke Absorber

·      Avoid smoke inhalation and eye irritation by working with your face tilted to the side of the wood being burned (wear eye protection if you burn hot and tend to sit close and lean in to your work).

If you feel any dizziness or headaches coming on while burning, stop and assess your situation.

Take breaks often!

Always follow all safety precautions set by the wood burning tool manufacturer.

Check out the blog post: Common Wood Types You Should Never Burn On

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A Case for Unfinished Woodburned Art

Do I need a finish for my wood art?

Some say it is a big no-no to not finish a wood piece, while others love it. I am here to build the case for the unfinished, un-lacquered, un-stained, un-oiled, as-is, natural, raw woodburned art.

What happens to the wood over time?

The first piece I ever created, my wedding name sign, back in 2011 still looks as good as the day I burned it. I didn’t finish it with anything. No oil, no stain, no varnish — nothing! It has been hanging on my wall for almost 10 years. While my craft has improved, this is still one of my most treasured burned pieces and I love that it has held up to time. But, I also love that even if it didn’t hold up or if it eventually fades, I can easily add to it whenever I please.

I am not saying that there isn’t a time and place for finishes, I actually think they help in many many cases, but that is for a different blog post on a different day. For my wood burned art pieces that will be hanging on a wall, I prefer to leave it raw.

7 reasons why I leave my woodburned wall art raw:

1. I love the contrast that the light colored wood has against the darkened burn lines. When almost any finish is added, that contrast diminishes.

2. By not finishing the piece, you are able to go back and add or edit the piece later on, you can touch-up areas if they fade over time without any prep work or damage to the original piece.

3. It’s cost effective! It doesn’t cost any money to leave the wood as-is.

4. You aren’t going to ruin it by choosing the wrong finish or by applying your finish improperly. Nothing is worse than ruining a finished piece in its final step.

5. It won’t yellow, crack, or chip off over time. It also will collect less dust and dirt than your oil based finishes.

6. It’s not going to ruin any color you add to your piece. It won’t smear, discolor, or fade any mixed media you add.

7. It’s a time saver! You don’t have to prep the surface, add the finish, sand between coats, and wait for it to cure.

This is not to say it doesn’t come with its disadvantages, but for wall decor, that is out of sunlight, and not being touched, I think it is a fantastic option.

There will be plenty of people that disagree, and that’s ok. You go right ahead and finish your piece, but for those wanting to leave it raw, here is your permission.

What are the disadvantages of leaving your woodburned art unfinished?

There are obviously some cons to leaving the wood raw. It doesn’t protect against - oil, fingerprints, dirt, dust, dents, UV, or water - but a lot of finishes don’t either.

For any kitchenware, I would never suggest leaving it raw. ALWAYS oil your kitchen wood items with food-safe finishes. The oil will protect them and keep them looking beautiful.

Anything functional art that is going to be handled, touched, and used I recommend applying a finish. This will help protect it from fingerprints, dents, water and damage.

Considering unfinished?

I hope my case for the raw, unfinished, natural, as-is wood art has convinced some of you to give it a go. To leave your art unfinished, save a little time, money and frustration. For those beautiful woodburned art pieces that are going to decorate someone’s walls, to be admired, but not touched, consider leaving it raw.

Check out these other helpful blog posts

Adding Watercolor to Wood

Getting kids involved with your pyrography

Transferring Images Using Heat and Without Using Heat

For more pyrography tips and tricks and to learn wood burning at your own pace from your home consider The Complete Wood Burning Toolkit.

Grow with the community: Join Burn Club+, a place where you can ask questions, and get the full answers, a place of fun and learning.